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This page shows the lengths people will go through to make money of people who do not research before they buy.

9/6/2003:  Since I began this crusade, Ebay users began to block the ability to COPY & PASTE in the detail, so I can't put the information here.  They also dissabled the RIGHT mouse click to save pictures.  See, they're rippin' you off, and THEY KNOW IT!  I can only COPY & PASTE from the listings, which isn't much. . .  Also, some have now began advertising them as IAT sensor, and Timing Tricker mods too, so some are coming around.

They are NOT a computer chip, performance module, performance capsule, or timing kits (parts), by any means.  They are simple resistors you can buy at Radio Shack, and you get FIVE in a pack! [Maybe you can cheat someone else  (times 4) on Ebay with the four you have left over].

YES! YOU CAN BUY THESE RESISTORS AT RADIO SHACK FOR UNDER 20 CENTS A PIECE, THEY ARE BOUGHT IN VOLUME FOR LESS THAN 10 CENTS A PIECE.  You have no choice, as I stated, they are .99 cents for five of them.

They are sold to you with a sheet of instructions (not good quality in some cases) with one single resistor, for 2.99, 7.99, 8.99, and up to $24.99, etc. PLUS SHIPPING!  You an place this item with one sheet of paper in a standard envelope, put the ole' .37 cent stamp, and mail it that way.  Nope, these morons want to charge you five times that in shipping, because they place it in a box, go to the post office and mail it USPS.

Some sell .20 cent resistor for 29.99!  If they don't show you a picture or tell you what brand they are, DON'T BUY IT!  You can also spot the cheesy auctions by seeing how many they have listed for each car.  This is because they work any just about ANY car with MPI, and that's about any car MFGed from 1987 and up.

Since they know they have garbage (and a potentially fraudulent item), they have to list 5, 10 or 20 items PER CAR (Now limited to Ten by Ebay), to get attention.  Do you really think that you could buy a PERFORMANCE CHIP or a PERFORMANCE MODULE for 2 or 3 dollars?

If you don't know what a resistor is, or you are still thinking of BUYING one of them, DON'T BOTHER.  I am going to show you, with pictures what it is, and how it is installed.

What you will get: a 4.7 kilo ohm resistor from radio shack, and a sheet of crappy instructions.  WHY DO YOU THINK THEY DON'T POST A PICTURE OF THEIR "PERFORMANCE CHIP"?  BECAUSE ITS NOT A CHIP!  THEY TRY TO GET AROUND IT BY POSTING A PICTURE OF A NICE CAR ON THE AD!  NO SURPRISES HERE!

IAT LOCATION

Needed:
4.7k ohm, 1/2 watt resistor, Plastic zip tie.
Expect approximately 5 minute – 20 minute install time.

Purpose:
Will increase your timing which will help improve your drag strip time. This mod has been shown to increase timing by as much as 1.5 degree's.  This modification is NOT suggested to do if you have knock retard, or detonation.  When you are in an environment where the intake air temperature is below 57 °F this modification will not benefit your cars performance.  These conditions will hurt performance instead of improving it.

This modification is always a subject for a good debate.  Using Auto Tap, it was verified that the resistor makes the PCM think the car is taking in cooler air with a temperature of about 57 °F.  I have no Auto Tap data to support the claim that timing is increased as much as 1.5 degrees.  Those figures are based on the claims of many people who use this modification at the track.  It's supposed to get you anywhere from 15-20% more horse power from your motor, don't expect more than 5%!!

Where does it go?
Place one end of the resistor into one slot on the intake air temperature (IAT) wire harness receptacle.  The receptacles are metal and appear sliver.  Do the same with the other end of the resistor and place it into the other IAT wire harness receptacle.

You are basically "bridging" the system here, not putting it in parallel with either line.  Everything I saw, and researched, says you do NOT plug the it back into the Sensor, you leave it hang, or tie it up somewhere.  This means the resistance reading is constant to the ECU, no matter the temperature of the intake manifold, or surrounding area is.

You may need to WATERPROOF the resistor as best possible, so maybe wire tie something around it, shrink tube (best), or electrical tape it good.  It won't look pretty, not by any means, but, that's what you get with this mod.  You can simply COAT the entire thing with Silicone if you plan on leaving it it.

You would need a switch and some relays in order to switch from it being plugged in, and bypassed.  You would have to hook it up in a way so that the plug stays in, but switches between the RESISTOR, and the SENSOR. . .  You figure it out!  I have, but am not going into detail, it isn't worth it!  I just do all the leg room to prove these things do not work as advertised.  If you use a switch, you should switch on/off before starting the engine to prevent the CEL flag.

Does it also increase your Top End speed?  Not really, your top speed and RPM limits (6200rpms) are controlled by the ECU, and is governed inside the computer.  The only way to stop this is to switch off the speed input wire from the sensor, to the ECU (results in CEL).  You can do that yourself, and that mod is also within this web site.  You can't use your Cruise Control until the input is back ot normal.

If your check engine light comes on, then the resistor is not connected properly, or you did this with the engine running.  You have to remove power from the ECU to reset it.   If you know that it's properly connected, but the CEL is on, then live with it if the thing is working (if you think so, that is).

Sample:  Intake is 67ºF. At this temperature of an IAT sensor may read 3.7K ohms. Warming the intake to 72ºF the resistance of the IAT dropped to aprox. 3.2K ohms. It's safe to say that if you COOLED the intake to 58ºF the resistance would indeed increase to aprox. 4.7K ohms.

We all know the IAT in the Avenger INTAKE will be much hotter than this, so what is the PROPER value resistor to use to actually lower the temp reading to 58ºF!  Heck, you could even by a pot and have a dial controlled resistor.

Oh, and do I have to say it?  This does NOT actually change temperature of the air coming in, the ECU just thinks so. . .

Now, is this truly a worthwhile mod or is it a snake oil?  The general census that I have found is that this mod generally doesn't do anything.  In some cases, it has helped, and others it has hurt.  The IAT Timing Tricker does its job as described.  It does force the PCM to read the IAT as a predetermined value set forth by the applied resistance.  The SLP unit forces the temperature to be approximately 36 degrees F at a sensor resistance of ~8100 kOhms.  Now, the old resistor mod utilized a resistor to provide approximately 57 degrees F at a sensor resistance of ~4700 kOhms.  Now, when people have problems with this mod, they find that the knock sensor forces a knock retard in the "advanced" timing and will actually force your timing back down to normal, if not lower.  The other problem with advancing timing too much is detonation.  Detonation is not your motor's friend.  Interesting you say, yes, it is.  Now, most people have stated, that it really didn't do anything.  Some people have stated that the resistor mod utilizing the 57 degrees F set point does work to a certain extent.  This is more than likely due to the fact that there is less timing advance, less knock, and thusly less retard but less advance, too.

SLP Engineering also says it gains 7Hp. . .

[5/1/03]: I tried this mod myself, and was VERY simple to install.  Seems the only reason you are using 1/2 Watt is due to the leads being thicker, and will plug into the sensor plug better than the 1/4 watt.  The Check Engine light did not come on at all with the resistor bridged in the plug.  When I unpluged the sensor with the motor on, the CEL came one.  I had to Pull the fuseable link for ENGINE under the hood to reset it.  Everything I tried, I could not get the light to shut off, and the key-on-off sequence did not work to retrieve the code either.

Performance wise?  There was very little difference in power output.  It was noticeable when going up hills and at WOT in some instances.  If you bought it on-line an an auction, then you didn't, and won't get your moneys worth.  If you bought the pack of FIVE at Radio Shack for .99 cents, then you didn't lose anything but that and the tax.

Basically, under normal driving as the car & intake warm up, you notice the slight drop in power, and the sluggishness of the engine.  This kept the power output quite constant, with a less drop in power at nornal operating temperature.  There was no 10-20HP gain, but there was a small, noticable difference.

[5/2/03]: It was a little rough at idle this morning when I started 'er up.  It stammered just a little, then went smooth.  Remember, the air was actually COOLER than what the ECU is getting from the sensor, so that made the difference for the rough idle.  I live 34+ miles NE of Pittsburgh, and it's usually 5 to 10 degrees cooler than the city.

You must also realize that with a 5% tolerance resistor, you are actually going to have a +/- 94 ohm margin of error as it heats up.  You can shop around on-line for a very good electronics outlet with LOW tolerance resistors for a very precise reading.   I have read in some forums, and sites, where they went to 5K-Ohms instead of 4.7K-ohm.  Mine mesaured just at 4.8K, but dipped up and down with temperature.

[5/5/03]: Gas milage has decreased by about 2MPG leaving this Modification installed.  I am not all that happy to admit that the thing does smooth out the excelleration curve.  If you are going to do this, get one yourself.   Look for a Potentiometer (POT) that has 1K to 6K.  You can install a "Dial" in device that you can adjust while driving.

You will have to stay within tolerance, or the ECM will throw a fit.  IF you want STEADY highway driving, bring it down to a LOW setting for a High Temp reading to lean out the mixture.   Also, Auto Zone sells Guage Pods and Guages, one for the Air-Fuel mix ratio.  They are wasy to install, maybe monitor your settings with that.

So, now what about the ECT sensor huh - Engine Coolant Temperature? Won't the ECM notice the intake air us much cooler than the Coolant?  What's going to happen here?  Are we going to have to change the readings here as well?  Lets see some information on this!

Though in some areas, depending WHERE the IAT is actually located, the air is going to be cooler than the engine coolant tempurature anyway.  In the Avenger, it's in the intake manifold, which is going to be HOT, and the air will be heated by the Intake manifold.  So, the air is only going to be as hot/cool as the intake in this case.

Why is this important to know? The ECT tells the ECU what the internal temperature of the engine is (more like at the coolant sensor), which determines a few things.  One thing that it affects like the IAT, is how much fuel is dumped into the cylinders. When an engine is cold, the ECU delivers more fuel and runs more timing advance because cold fuel does not atomize as well as warm fuel.

By modifying the ECT Signal like with the IAT, we fool the ECU into delivering more fuel into the engine and running a little more timing advance, thereby enhancing power and throttle response. The ECT isn't the ultimate authority when it comes to telling the ECU what to do, but it has a heavily weighted opinion.

The mod involves installing a Potentiometer (Variable Resistor) in series between the ECT and the ECU. By adding resistance to the ECT's circuit, the ECU believes the engine is colder and makes the above mentioned changes almost instantaneously. It's a pretty neat trick.  The pot goes on the RETURN side of the sensor line, as the other is supplying low power to the sensor to get the readings.

Since we are using a Potentiometer, we can "Dial In" the appropriate amount of added resistance and we can also turn it off with the quick turn of a knob (to Zero). Once the Pot is wired into the circuit, the mod is initially adjusted thusly: Start the engine with the Pot "Zeroed Out" or turned fully counter-clockwise. Then once the engine has reached normal operating temperature, slowly turn the pot until the idle RPM's have increased 250-350 RPM's. Take it for a spin to feel the results!

By the way, this mod has been around for over 10 years, as has the IAT.  They began with the use of MPI systems.

I have seen these DIAL-IN modifications for $99.00 or more at some MFG sites.

The stock computer already compensates fuel as it is, so trying to trick it into giving you more fuel is completely worthless. If you dump too much fuel, via switching to a colder resistance on the IAT while driving, you may even notice a puff of black smoke out the exhaust. Then, the O2 sensor will detect the overly rich mixture, and reduce the injector pulse width. This totally defeats the purpose or the IAT mod.

*I find this a little OVERLY critical.  Your car's O2 sensor is designed to allow min & max readings, and the IAT modifications here are well within the specifications of the entire system (before the ECU makes any drastic adjustments).  If you were to go outside the specs, maybe using a 5.7K+Ohm resistor instead of the 4.7K, then you may cause the ECU to adjust the pulse width of the injectors due to the high reading at the IAT.  You may trip the CEL as well if you go outside the high/low tolerances.  As 4.7K as a top-out, there should be no adjustments of the Injector pulse widths.  IF you go outside the limits, then your ECU will adjust according to O2 sensor readings (too rich).

You have probably heard of performance eprom chips. There chips consist of a stock computer program that has been altered to inject more fuel into the engine under acceleration. Timing curves are commonly also adjusted consequently. These chips can be found to be quite effective, but also pricey as you not only need the chip, but also a socketing kit. You then need to do some soldering on your computer board which can damage it and cause it to malfunction. On the other hand, this 'piggy back' electronic device will alter the fuel and timing curves in a very similar way as the eprom chip would, but without even opening the ECU. How can it do that? By fooling your computer and letting it think that you are sucking air at a different temperature. Your computer will respond with increased power!

By tricking the computer, we are able to make the reading of the computer shift to the right in the table, which will make it think it is under heavier load and increase the power. You have the proof right there! You can either buy an eprom chip, as explained further up or even get a bigger system that will control your engine, or you can simply keep that hard earned money and install this little device. You have nothing to lose!

This one also claimed to have three different boost levels, so you can guess three resistors, with a switch. . .

SUPER CHIP Power Control Modules (PCM) optimizes the ignition spark advance and recalibrates the fuel map for optimum horsepower and acceleration. Modified Ignition Curve. Recalibrated Air/Fuel Ratio for Maximum Performance. Improved 1/4 Mile E.T's. All vehicles are set with limits built into them at the factory. They reduce emissions, as well as performance in an effort to lower taxes payed by the manufacturer to the government. Unfortunatly these benifits are NOT passed on to the consumers. Our performance chips remove these limitations in power and restore your vehicle to a more "performance" type setting. If you are looking for a good way to boost engine output safely then this unit is all you need. Same function as ECU upgrades (cost $300+) and Performance chips like the Jet V-chip...but this just for a FRACTION of the cost, and does the same exact thing adds up to 20 HP. Your vehicle will accelerate faster, more torque and has a higher top end speed. 100% SAFE, 100% LEGAL. Some results will be more or less, depending on engine condition, climate, and what mods you already have on your vehicle. This chip comes with all the hardware needed for installation and simply easy to follow

Get a life. . .  Stop missleading people, show us what's INSIDE the thing!

Fuel/oxygen ratios in modern automobiles are regulated by an Electronic Control Unit(ECU).  Factory ECUs are set to maintain a 14.7:1 Fuel/Oxygen ratio, this is known as a stoichometric fuel mix.  This mix is a balance between power and fuel economy, which is what most automobile buyers are happy with.  In general, leaning out the fuel/oxygen ratio will cause a power loss, but fuel economy gain, conversely richening the mix will cause a slight (usually less than 1/2 mpg) reduction in fuel economy, but an increase in power.  The fuel/oxygen ratio must remain between 13:1 and 17:1 to remain efficient, any leaner and the engine will be starved for fuel, any richer and the engine will not be able to combust all of the fuel causing inefficiency.  Performance chips and modules increase performance by adjusting these ratios between 13 and 14.7, the more performance oriented fuel curves.

The G-Box gets results!  Designed to be the low-cost-leader in the chip & module market, the G-Box offers more than a very significant cost savings over the similar models from companies like JET & SLP.  All 3 units modify the fuel curve of the engine, however, the JET product requires that you change the thermistat in your vehicle, adding another $50 at minimum to the already not-so-cheap price tag of $270.  Many JET customers are dissatisfied with this because they have much difficulty getting heat during the winter months.  The Next Level Module does not require the replacement or adjustment of any other parts to your vehicle.  The Next Level Module provides signal-error protection during extreme operating conditions, the JET & SLP units do not.  The Stage 1 G-Box (currently the only model available) did NOT require the use of premium fuel during testing, the JET and the SLP units did (Premium fuel will however enchance the performance gains acheived by the G-Box).  Performance gains are very similar between the JET & Next Level units, however the SLP unit lags behind in most conditions.  In many instances (reviews widely available on the internet) the JET unit did not provide any performance increase at all (and in all fairness to JET, other times it did).  And best of all, the Stage 2( Racing Module) G-Box is tentatively scheduled to be released next fall, at which point Next Level plans to make a cheap upgrade unit for stage 1 owners, allowing them to upgrade to a more aggressive unit when it becomes available(the Stage 2 is expected to require premium fuel).  When is the last time JET offered to upgrade chips for past buyers for almost no cost at all?!
 

This one seemed to be the better of them all, really. . .

TraTech Pressurized High Performance Capsules

BOOST YOUR CAR OR TRUCK TODAY! ADD UP TO 15+ HP" Respectfully" with this safe ECU CHIP!
"INCREASE THE POWER OF YOUR VEHICLE TODAY!
ADDS UP TO 20 HP MAX TO YOUR ENGINE!

Safe and easy easy to install!
"This simple, yet revolutionary modification will allow you to boost the power output of your vehicle's engine, without sacrificing reliability or comfort. It is a Dyno Tested electronic chipping device contained in a revolutionary pressurized capsule unique to any other product available. It is easy to install and is inserted between one of your car's existing sensor and the ECU. Because of this unique patented design your new unit's performance will not be effected by heat and moisture, like many other exposed units on the market.This unit is known as a 'Piggy Back' device as it is external to the main processing unit (the ECU). You will feel the gain instantly, no fooling around or expensive tuning necessary. This unit will work with most vehicles equipped with electronic fuel injection. 99% of cars manufactures after 1988 are equipped with electronic fuel injection...However these units are vehicle specific so be sure to bid on the correct auction for your vehicle!!If you are not sure or if we are not currently listing an auction for your specific vehicle please contact us.

Here is how it works:
You have probably heard of performance EPROM chips. These chips consist of a stock computer program that has been altered to inject more fuel into the engine under acceleration. Timing curves are commonly also adjusted consequently. These chips can be found to be quite effective, but also very expensive, as you not only need the chip, but also need a socketing kit. You then need to do some soldering on your computer board that can damage it and cause it to malfunction costing you thousands to fix. On the other hand, this 'piggy back' electronic device will alter the fuel and timing curves in a very similar way as the EPROM chip would, but without opening the ECU. It safer, more effective and won't void your warrantee like EPROM chips will! Your vehicle will respond with increased power, throttle response, increased torque and higher top end speeds!"

Again, no picture of this yeah ok, pressurised capsule. . .  Capsule?  C'mon people!  Same as the resistor. . .

BOOST YOUR CAR TODAY! ADD UP TO 20+ HP ECU CHIP!

INCREASE THE POWER OF YOUR VEHICLE TODAY!
"Performance Through Technology"

ADDS UP TO 15-20 HP TO YOUR ENGINE!

Brand new product! Safe and easy easy to install! Get yours today!

This simple, yet effective modification will allow you to boost the power output of your vehicle's engine, without sacrificing reliability or comfort. It consists of a small electronic device that will be inserted between one of your car's sensor and the ECU. This is also know as a 'piggy back' device as it is external to the main processing unit (the ECU). You will feel the gain instantly, no fooling around or expensive tuning necessary. This unit will work with all vehicles equipped with electronic fuel injection. 99% of cars manufactures after 1988 are equipped with electronic fuel injection. Here is how it works:

You have probably heard of performance eprom chips. There chips consist of a stock computer program that has been altered to inject more fuel into the engine under acceleration. Timing curves are commonly also adjusted consequently. These chips can be found to be quite effective, but also pricey as you not only need the chip, but also a socketing kit. You then need to do some soldering on your computer board which can damage it and cause it to malfunction. On the other hand, this 'piggy back' electronic device will alter the fuel and timing curves in a very similar way as the eprom chip would, but without even opening the ECU. How can it do that? By fooling your computer and letting it think that you are sucking air at a different temperature. Your computer will respond with increased power!

UPGRADE YOUR CAR TODAY!

[Picture here was unavailable?] - So it said. . .

HIGHEST HORSEPOWER GAIN PER DOLLAR! UNLEASH THE TRUE POTENTIAL OF YOUR ENGINE!

By tricking the computer, we are able to make the reading of the computer shift to the right in the table, which will make it think it is under heavier load and increase the power. You have the proof right there! You can either buy an eprom chip, as explained further up or even get a bigger system that will control your engine, or you can simply keep that hard earned money and install this little device. You have nothing to lose!

***BUT IT'S NOT ALL!***

Our device is also user adjustable! You can chose bewteen 3 different levels of increased power!

HOW FAST DO YOU WANT TO GO?

1 - MILD  ???
2 - MODERATE  ???
3 - EXTREME  ???

*All levels are interchangeable and safe for your engine*

WHAT YOU GET
3 MODULES
1 SET OF INSTRUCTIONS
 

Another chip, err, set of resistors. . .

Gain up to 20 HORSE POWER!

Oxygen-Fuel ratios in modern automobiles are regulated by an Electronic Control Unit (ECU). Your factory ECU is set to maintain a 14.7:1 Oxygen-Fuel ratio, this is known as a stoichometric fuel mix. This mix is a balance between power and fuel economy.  However, richening the mix will generate an increase in power. The fuel/oxygen ratio must remain between 13:1 and 17:1 to remain efficient, this Oxygen Performance Modification will increase your vehicle's performance by adjusting it's Oxygen-Fuel ratio.  Your vehicle's performance will increase noticeably, you will have more power without decreasing your fuel economy.

Probably another resistor. . .

Same Function as ECU Upgrades and Performance Chips Like the Venom and Jet V-Chip! Gain upto 20 horsepower!!
Give your Car or Truck up to 20 More HorsePower!!

All parts are INCLUDED with easy to follow step by step instuctions. This do-it-yourself kit takes no knowledge of cars and is extremely easy to install. This is a resistor chip that will modify your AIR/Fuel ratio and slightly change your engine timing to run stronger and with increased power.

Releasing the true HORSEPOWER of your engine!

This mod is a fraction of the cost of those expensive ECU upgrades ($400-$800)

And does the same exact thing adds up to 20 HP!

Stop paying high prices for this MOD !!! [Ha! With a starting price of $6.00, and buy it now of 23.00!]

This mod will fit all models of your car. It is extremely easy to install no tools are required and this mod will not damage your car in anyway. I have installed this myself in Less than 10 Minutes on my vehicle and it works, YES it does work!!

You will DEFINATELY notice the difference Right Off the Line.

It is More Responsive , More Powerfull & You will Like it!

Don’t bother buying from the competitors, they charge too much for shipping. WAY over priced.

Your car will accelerate faster and have a higher top end speed. This is a great mod for any car, and will definitely increase your HP up to 20 hp. Your 1/4 mile times will decrease a few tenths of a second or more and your 1/4 mile MPH will improve as well.

This mod is very easy to install anyone could do it. This mod is also just as easy to remove in 5 minutes or less and replace it if you want at a later time.

"Performance Through Technology"

This Auction is specifically for the Dodge Avenger/Stratus I-4/V6 Part # 290-D 2.0L/2.4/3.0L All Avenger/Stratus Power Plants l

Della Performance Products Presents
ProXMod

Thank you for your interest in the New XMod™ by Della Performance®. At Della Performance® quality and consistency go hand and hand. The new XMod™ was hand crafted and performance tested before it leaves our facility. It is constructed of the highest quality components available and that's why it carries a 90 day Limited Replacement Warranty.
We are the only company offering a comprehensive warrantee covering our products on Ebay!! One of the benefits of dealing with a mature established company.

Because we use Thermal and Water-Resistant Insulated Capsule Technology®, your new mod will last longer and has the needed protection to prevent it from malfunctioning under Extreme Conditions. This technology also eliminates the need for out dated error correction circuitry...

"Be Careful"
Weather you buy our product or you choose another brand, make sure the unit is heat resistant and especially water proof like the XMod. We recently have heard stories of vehicles stalling when the engines got wet because the units they purchased were not waterproof. This can be dangerous if the vehicle is in motion.
The XMod is state of the art!!

The XMod is a new product to the US and has been developed and used in Europe for years. Our unit competes with much higher priced units The XMod out performed most of these module/chips! You can spend upwards of $300.00+ Plus for this type of performance.....Why! When you can buy from a race proven performance company like Della Performance for a fraction of the cost! We have been in business for 10 years perfecting what many have just discovered…. How to achieve performance through technology.

No extra modifications are required. Works on both stock and modified vehicles...Great for lease cars!! The unit can be removed easily with no detection and the X Mod won't effect emissions testing.

Italian Engineering at Test Market Pricing!!!!!

WE HAVE CONTRACTS WITH SEVERAL LARGE CHAIN PARTS STORES TO BE IMPLEMENTED WITHIN A YEAR!!TIME IS RUNNING OUT!!!

BUY NOW AND SAVE!!!

”How it Works…. Today’s vehicles are required to produce less pollution. The way this is done is by regulating the ECU to reduce emissions. This effects performance by reducing the amount of fuel, air and spark being delivered to the engine. The factory settings govern the ECU to mix a specific amount of fuel and air more favorable for emissions and not performance. The XMod by Della Performance has you covered. Our mod not only increases your fuel curves and air ratios, it also will advance your spark to compensate for the extra fuel and air being delivered…. The Result….Better Throttle Response, Increased Torque and More Horsepower with more complete combustion and less waste!!!

It’s one of the most efficient, power producing mods on the market, with only a ½ mile per gallon taxation on fuel consumption!!!

Bonus:
The XMod is also designed to perform on all octane grades of fuel.
It is perfectly safe for your car and won't affect reliability, because our unit operates within factory specifications.

We are a professional company in business for 10 years doing what we do best..Making performance parts. Don't be fooled by cheap look-a-likes! Nobody has a mod that can handle extreme conditions like the XMod.

Have you ever looked at an ad for a mod or chip but never saw a picture of it? There is a reason... If your like me I don’t buy anything I can’t see and also don’t know who made it. Especially if you are going to hook it up to your $1,500 computer in your car. Think about it! Listen Italians have been synonymous with racing since the beginning. Unfortunately only a handful of people can afford their technology. The XMod by Della Performance is a chance to get Italian engineering and craftsmanship at an affordable limited time price.

Don't wait!! Buy today and save!!!

Simple Installation! No Need to Solder or Cut Factory Wiring! Installs in Minutes!!!

{There was also installation instructions on this Pic, I cut them out}
{There was also a nice PIC of a Funny Car, with their Logo super-imposed on it to make it look sponsored!}

The SUPER BLACK BOX Performance Module

Horsepower Chip with variable timing Adjustment!!!
Works on 99% of vehicles!
WAIT…. DID WE SAY ADJUSTMENT??  YOU BET WE DID.  THIS IS THE ONLY PERFORMANCE PART THAT I KNOW OF, TO LET YOU ADJUST HOW MUSH POWER YOU WANT IT TO RECEIVE FROM INSIDE YOUR OWN CAR!!!

Well how come the other guys don’t have an adjustment??  To tell you the real truth… I think they are trying to rip people off!! And that means they only have one setting, which is similar to a resistor!!!
This is the real deal If you do not see one for you application (car/truck) please E-Mail us and we will get back to you in the ASAP which is usually the same day.

This high performance part alters the Air Intake Temperature that other overpriced resistors on Ebay do, but this module enables the driver to alter the IAT signal sent to the computer in real-time and on the fly while they are driving!!!   Why is this a good thing?????  Please Read on.

Ever notice that your car seems to have a lot more “Snap” when you first start or drive in cold weather?????? That’s because the engine is breathing in COLD AIR.   A colder air intake charge richens the Air Fuel Mixture to slightly higher levels than Stoichiometric ratio (14.7:1) AND advances the timing anywhere from 2-5 degrees.  As the engine warms, the performance and pep is lost because the timing is retarded and fuel mixture is leaned out.

We have a solution to that problem!  Slightly MORE FUEL=MORE POWER

Because temperature and humidity vary on a day-to-day minute-by-minute basis, the ECU or engine control computer responds via the IAT sensor signal makes the changes in fuel curves for optimal FUEL ECONOMY.  When “the other guys” “Chips” are installed, the computer is forced to recognize only a single signal, which may not be optimal for performance or fuel economy.  Our product gives the driver the ability to find the optimal setting for the IAT signal by varying the load placed on the computer AT ANY TIME while driving.

Gains vary from vehicle to vehicle.  25+ HP on high output engines is not uncommon.   Installs and Uninstalls in MINUTES…….NO Cutting wires or tampering with ECU!!! Simple Installation!  Soldering is not required!  Approximate installation time is 15 minutes if that!!! Lifetime Warranty (if unit is not tampered with)

 How hard is it to install this device?   Installation is very easy! Detailed instructions are included with every product.

{$45.00??  This is a Potentiometer!  DO not pay that much for a $5.00 piece of Hardware!}

This auction is for a NEW Oxygen Sensor Modification for your vehicle.

It has been tested by professionals, raced on the strip, and performance has greatly improved!

Oxygen-Fuel ratios in modern automobiles are regulated by an Electronic Control Unit (ECU). Your factory ECU is set to maintain a 14.7:1 Oxygen-Fuel ratio, this is known as a stoichometric fuel mix. This mix is a balance between power and fuel economy. However, richening the mix will generate an increase in power. The fuel/oxygen ratio must remain between 13:1 and 17:1 to remain efficient, this Oxygen Performance Modification will increase your vehicle's performance by adjusting it's Oxygen-Fuel ratio. Your vehicle's performance will increase noticeably, you will have more power without decreasing your fuel economy.

Give your Car or Truck that 15 - 20 HP you always wanted!

This will fit most fuel injected models (non-turbo) of cars and trucks from 1987 and up.

All parts and complete, detailed instructions are included--installation is will only take about 20 minutes.

{Another one with no picture of this fine, high-tech, um, resistor. . .}

ALL NEW POWER MOD

Timing advance made easy!!

BLOW OUT SALE!!

Get the latest upgrade today AT THE LOWEST PRICE ON EBAY!!!!

YOU WILL ALSO GET LIFE-TIME Guarantee, IF YOUR CHIP BURNS OUT, WE WILL REPLACE IT FOR FREE!!

LIMITED TIME ONLY, Buy It Now TODAY!

Same Function as ECU Upgrades and Performance Chips Like the Venom and Jet V-Chip! Gain upto 20 horsepower!!

NO RESERVE! BID AWAY!

Give your Car or Truck up to 20 More HorsePower!!

We are the leading seller in modification kits for cars and trucks at the best prices possible!

All parts are INCLUDED with easy to follow step by step instuctions. This do-it-yourself kit takes no knowledge of cars and is extremely easy to install. This is a resistor chip that will modify your AIR/Fuel ratio and slightly change your engine timing to run stronger and with increased power.

Releasing the true HORSEPOWER of your engine!

This mod is a fraction of the cost of those expensive ECU upgrades ($400-$800)

And does the same exact thing adds up to 20 HP!

Stop paying high prices for this MOD !!! {Right, and his was at 19.50, what a Jerk!}

We buy in huge quantities, therefore giving you the best price on eBay!
DON'T BE FOOLED

UPGRADE YOUR CAR TODAY!

HIGHEST HORSEPOWER GAIN PER DOLLAR! UNLEASH THE TRUE POTENTIAL OF YOUR ENGINE!

This is the same kit, yes the same kit!!! that many others are selling for much more!

This mod will fit all models of your car. It is extremely easy to install no tools are required and this mod will not damage your car in anyway. I have installed this myself in Less than 10 Minutes on my vehicle and it works, YES it does work!!

You will DEFINATELY notice the difference Right Off the Line.

It is More Responsive , More Powerfull & You will Like it!

Don’t bother buying from the competitors, they charge too much for shipping. WAY over priced.

Your car will accelerate faster and have a higher top end speed. This is a great mod for any car, and will definitely increase your HP up to 20 hp. Your 1/4 mile times will decrease a few tenths of a second or more and your 1/4 mile MPH will improve as well.

This mod is very easy to install anyone could do it. This mod is also just as easy to remove in 5 minutes or less and replace it if you want at a later time.

BUY IT NOW, LOWEST PRICE ON EBAY GUARANTEED!!!

Easier & Faster than Pumping Gas

You will Not Be disappointed with the result.
This chip comes with a special EASY to READ Walk Through Instruction sheet.

?  It will work on ALL models (excluding turbos) from 1990 to present

Will This Void My Warranty ???

?  NO This Will Not Void out Most Warranties. If you have a very strict Underwriter on your Warranty You can Undo this Mod in less than 5 minutes. You can even Re-Install later. This Leaves No Trace of Any Modification.

Will this work on aftermarket intakes (cold air/short ram) or stock intakes?

.  Yes, it will work on ALL INTAKES!!

Will This Hurt My Car , Motor , Computer etc.???

  NO This will Not Hurt Your Car or Have any Negative effect on your Motor , Computer whatsoever. It is impossible to damage your engine with this mod... In Fact This Mod will actually work WITH your car the way it is Designed. Use premium fuel for best results

Will this device fit on my vehicle?

If your vehicle is equipped with electronic fuel injection, it will work on 99.9% of cars manufactured after in or after 1990 are equipped with a fuel injection. It will however not work on turbocharged vehicles.

{Do ya notice they keep saying "Chip"?}

Do you get the picture, or do I reallty need to list more unique titles?

Generally the IAT is located along the intake SOMEWHERE, be it on the intake tube, just before the Throttle Body (TB), or on the intake manifold itself (Avenger/Sebring 2.5L V6).  Locating is should not be all that difficult.

98-2001 - 2.5L V6 - Left side of intake, before the MAP sensor.  Threre are onle two sensors on the intake, the 2-wire is the IAT.

2001 2.4L DOHC - Follow your intake tube to the intake, right where the tube curves before the TB, the IAT is there below.

2001 2.7L V6 - The IAT is also located in the intake duct, before the TB.

The manual did not show where the IAT is located in the 2.0L engine, but you should be able to find it.

This sensor will be located somewhere on the block where your thermostat or top cooling line is.  This sensor is also the primary reporting device for your guage, so altering it will show a false reasinf on your instrument cluster.

On the 2.5L V6, it is lcated just AFTER the pressure cap, stands straight up.

On the 2.7L V6 is is the LEFT side water hose, just after it bends to the right.

On the 2.4L DOHC I4 it is kind of below the pressure cap, sticking out to the left.

This you do not BRIDGE, you would have to put sopmething in series, like another resister, or a potentiameter to adjust.

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