Removing the EGR system - BASIC instructions

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REMOVING THE EGR SYSTEM
(Easiest way)

Again, this is not legal in the US, but yet you can be shown how, and why it's done. I guess the first question is Why Bob? Well, the EGR system is another culprit in having a hot intake manifold, carbon build up, and just plain old gunk in the intake. Without it, your intake is cleaner, cooler, and cooler air means more HP. . .

All engines now, use exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) to improve emissions performanceon the street (so the hole in the Ozone layer isn't over your county). This involves taking exhaust gas flow from one of the exhaust ports and recirculating it back into the intake air stream. The process of doing this has a couple of drawbacks for the performance minded individual. First off, it raises the temperature of the cooler intake charge as it is mixed with the recirculated exhaust gas. Second, it fouls the intake runners with carbon deposits from the spent flow. And third, in routing the exhaust flow it heats the intake substantially, again killing the cooler, denser intake charge and robbing you of horsepower in the process. The only good thing Ford did in this scheme was spare us the recirculating gas under wide open throttle (WOT). At WOT, the EGR valve closes, shutting off the flow of exhaust gas into the air intake stream. I do not know of this is how it's done on the Avenger, but I doubt it.

-MORE-

The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve sends some of the exhaust gas back into the cylinders to reduce combustion temperature. This is required because nitrous oxides (nasty pollutants) form when the combustion temperature gets above 2,500 degrees F. This is as a result of the formation of nitrous oxides when the nitrogen in the air mixes with the oxygen. When it's sunny, the nitrous oxides from the exhaust get together with the hydrocarbons in the air to form smog. This is when the EGR valve comes in handy. By recirculating some of the exhaust gas back through the intake manifold to the cylinders, we can lower the combustion temperature. Lowering the combustion temperature lowers the amount of nitrous oxide produced. Consequently, less of it comes out the tail pipe. There are two types of EGR valves. One operates through the use of a vacuum, and the other operated through the use of pressure. Both types allow the exhaust gas in to lower the combustion temperature when it gets too high.

I sinply removed the vacuum line from the intake plenum, to the EGR soleniod, caped it, and put the hose back OVER it so it will pass a visual inspection. The car runs very nice, and gets better gas milage. The only downside is, my SES light comes on once a week usually now. What I do then, is, with the key in the RUN position, pull the ENGINE fuse under the hood, then plug it back in. This resets the ECU, and the SES light is off once more. The steps below are a more permenent measure in stopping EGR.

I got this from a web site, who had a FORD, and took theirs out:

"I short circuited the EGR with the following three steps:

1. Pull the upper intake. Disconnect the intake tube at the throttle body and unhook the throttle cable by inserting a small screwdriver into the ball & spring lock and pry downwards. Unbolt the throttle linkage from the throttle body and set out of the way. Disconnect the EGR spacer coolant lines, the EGR vacuum line, and the two engine harnass connectors. Remove the six upper intake bolts (2 are located under the decorative intake cover). Disconnect the four vacuum lines to the upper intake. Three are attached to the backside of the intake while one is attached to the front side. The upper intake should now lift off.....be careful not to damage the upper/lower intake gasket or either of the intake mating surfaces. You can now see the EGR port located between the #3 and #6 intake runners.

2. Buy two 3/4" freeze plugs from the local auto boys. The 3/4" plugs are just a hair smaller than the EGR port, so I took a hacksaw and saw-cut the freeze plug flange in a cross pattern so that it formed four tabs. Now by slightly expanding the tabs, the freeze plugs can be securely driven into the EGR port. I drove one into the lower manifold and one into the upper manifold, again being careful not to damage the surfaces.

3. Put the upper manifold back on by reversing the order of step (1). Torque the main manifold bolts to 18-25 ft-lbs each.

Now, theoretically you could also remove the EGR spacer (and replace it with a blocking plate) at this point since you have no more EGR flow to regulate. However, the ECM wouldn't like you much and would give you a lifetime of EGR codes. I left mine in place. Although, you can go ahead and remove the coolant circulation lines to the EGR spacer and keep things even
cooler yet. Without the hot exhaust flow, they serve no purpose."

GASKET BLOCKER

Here is a very, VERY simple way to close the EGR tube.

Whay you need is: Tin snips (or something that will cut an aluminum pop can)
Aluminum Pop/BEER Can.

1. Cut out a portion of the can, say a 2"x2" square.

2. Trace the tube end that bolts on to the Intake Plenum, and then MARK the bolt holes as well. Use a good marker, the "Sharpie" fine point works great!!

3. With your cutters, of course, cut out your traced piece, then drill/poke the holes where the bolts would go.

4. Use this piece you made as a Gasket between the EGR and PLENUM!

That is the SIMPLEST way to block the EGR tube without dissconnecting vacuum hoeses and wires! No one will notice, it will look like a metal gasket!