The dealer told me this is a known problem (LH) and replaced them with heaver duty rotors. There are two TSB's from JUNE 94 that deal with front brake rotors.
If lug nuts are over-tightened, it places too much stress on the rotors resulting in warpage soon thereafter. I always go over each lug with a torque wrench set at 90 ft lbs.
I replaced my front rotors with Wagner, and they have not warped, nor
are they producing any pulsating. I changed the rotors along with
the brakes, and they are fine. When I bought the Avenger, the OE
rotors began pulsating almost immediately. When I had them cut, (twice)
they began to pulsate 3k miles later. I have more than twice that
on these Wagner rotors.
All Chrysler four-speed automatic transmissions are very sensitive to the quality of the transmission fluid. Only use Type 7176+ in these transmissions (type 9606 in 2000 and up models). Do not use Dexron or Mercon.
Often, people can cure their transmission problems simply by changing the fluid! If you suspect (or know) they have put Dexron in, invest the $40 or so to have it replaced immediately - otherwise, you'll have a nice big transmission bill!
There is no universal automatic transmission fluid. Chrysler four-speed automatics only use Type 7176+ (9606 for 2000 and up vehicles), regardless of what the dipstick or owner's manual says.
If you don't have any problems until you have your car serviced...what does that tell you?
There is NO UNIVERSAL TRANSMISSION FLUID. DO NOT USE DEXRON!
WHY? The friction characteristics of DEXRON are different from
7176. It is a "grabbier" fluid. The Chrysler transmission has
an electronic system which continuously senses the behavior of the transmission
and regulates shifts accordingly. If DEXRON is used, the clutches
inside the transmission will "grab", and the electronic controls, which
sample the operation of the transmission about 140-180 times a second,
will let up on the clutches. The clutches will then slip excessively, the
transmission will try to tighten up on them, and due to the characteristics
of DEXRON, they will again grab. This will occur at the 140-180 times
per second rate, and the transmission will have a shuddering feel to the
shifting. This is also very hard on the clutches, and they will have
a short life. The cost to overhaul one of these transmissions
is about $1200-$1400 on a front-drive car, so you DO NOT want to shorten
its life.
If you need to add a pint of fluid and 7176 is not available, drive a few miles to the next place which has it. This will be less harm than using DEXRON.
If a mechanic says he can substitute a little DEXRON and it won't do any harm, LEAVE!
If someone says he can use DEXRON plus an "anti-friction additive" in your Chrysler transmission, LEAVE!
If you have some DEXRON lying around from your old car, give it away to some friend with a GM or late Ford car.
If somebody puts DEXRON in, take it to a shop which uses 7176, and have
them drain the ENTIRE transmission, and refill with 7176. This
will cost about $160.00.
The heart of one of Chrysler's strongest sales markets. You can
stand on any street corner in any town and in ten minutes probably hear
30-40 examples of this sound, which goes "bzzzz---zz-tic". It's completely
normal. It's the transmission fluid control solenoid valves opening
and shutting rapidly to make the fluid go where it's supposed to go to
shift the transmission. All the FWD/AWD 4spd automatics make this sound
with every upshift, every downshift, and every gear selection. You
hear the one as you pull to a stop, because the road and engine noise are
minimal at this low speed.
I have had this happen to me a couple of times--even on overhauls, the low/reverse seals are very tight in the piston retainer. The piston will not move with a small amount of fluid pressure and the computer 'sees' this and applies more fluid the the circuit. More fluid, more pressure and it finally slams the piston and you as a driver feel this.
Sometime you can flash the computer [reprogram] to the latest specs
and it might work. The computer learns the cvi's [clutch volumn indexs]
which in turn tells the solenoid pak how long to keep any given solenoid
open to send fluid to a clutch pack. This will only work with clutch paks
that are in good shape with the right clutch clearances. If the clutch
clearances are bad this will not work properly. If the seals are bad, you
will only try to cover up a problem and it will come back. The only way
to fix this problem is to overhaul the trans with the proper trans kit
and parts. The mopar kit has all the newest and correct seals in it.
Most of the A604 shifting issues are one of two things, clogged solenoid
pack, about $60 for a new one last checked, or an older software version
which any dealer should be able to update to new.
In 1992, Chrysler renamed the A604 Ultradrive as the 41TE transmission.
Technical service bulletins (TSBs) after this date refer to the Ultradrive
as a 41TE transmission even though the bulletin might cover 1989 models
when the Ultradrive was known only as the A604. Much like the Jeep CJ became
the Jeep Wrangler and the Firestone 500 became the 721, the A604 became
the 41TE to escape bad publicity.
This kills the speedometer signal to your ECM, and eliminates the 110-115 mph limit! The side effect is, you will get a check engine light, and find it to be code 15 (no speedo signal), and your cruise control will not work. I will look for a REV limiter removal if I can find it.
Option: Install a switch to this this wire, maybe with
a relay, so that you can control the connection from inside the car.
When the wire is hot, via the switch, you can use the cruise control.
The check engine light will light up again if you drive for about 3 or
4 min with it disconnected, or off, or if you go about 3 or 4 miles. Better
yet, You can hook it up to the factory main cruise control button,
so that the wire stays disconnected until you turn on the main cruise button,
then it goes back to normal. This will require a relay to trigger
the relay when the main cruise is on, and then allow the spedo signal to
pass through to the harness.
A relay trigger circuit is usually labeled with numbers 85in and 86out (ground). The switch side of the relay is usually labeled with 87 for use with the relay activated, and 87A for use with the relay de-activated, and 30in (B+) side of the switch gives you power at either 87 (power from 30 is here when triggered) or 87A (power from 30 is here when off). This trick works on most cars, but some fuel pums are not designed to be run "wide open" all the time. Please check with the manufacturer for reccomended voltage before trying this.
Since gas cools the pump, you do not want to run low or out of gas with
this set-up. You will burn it up for sure with it working at 100%.
Buy a can for top engine cleaner from your GM DEALER (other decarbon fluids dont work as good). You want the liquid, not the spray. This is to be done outdoors ( a lot of smoke will occure). Part # should be 1050002. You can use Marvel Mystery Oil if you are buying an off the shelf product.
Start motor and let it reach normal operating temp.
Find a vaccum hose which has vaccum at all times (with engine running)
Open can
Stick vaccum hose in top engine cleaner
Hold the idle up as the car will try to stall
Let the car suck the fluid into the engine
Dont let the vaccum hose come out of the fluid,as if it does NO DECARBONIZING
WILL OCCURE
Let about 90% of the can go into the car and then let it stall
Reconnect vaccum hose to vehicle.
Let it sit for 10 minutes
Start car, car will smoke a lot
Drive around till smoke discontinues (better to try and use 30%, then
40% and then 50% and all the way up to 100% throttle)(meaning that you
don't use one set gas pedal pressure).
Reset ECM by pulling ECM fuse (underhood) for a few seconds.
With A/C turned off, start car and immediately put it in Drive with your foot on the brake. If the car does not start initially, keep trying WITHOUT putting your foot on the accelerator.
Let the car idle in gear for at least 5 and no more than 7 minutes.
Shut off the car for 10 seconds.
Start engine, place in drive and let idle for 5 minutes.
Shut off engine.
Idle is learned.
This may also vary from car-to-car, but this is a general idea.