This modification is to fill the
gaps in the existing motor mount, with a Urethane filler.
If you want to stiffen up your motor
mounts, then you have a few
choices. The popular choices are to buy inserts or you can fill them
with 3M
WindoWeld. The Inserts are easy to install, but can partially
squash out of
the mount under heavy loads. The 3M WindoWeld won't squash out, but
takes a
long time to prepare and apply. It is an air cured adhesive, so
you have to apply
it in thin layers. Each layer will take a couple hours to dry. One
mount could become an all day process.
What works better, is something that
McMasterCarr
sells, they sell an assortment of urethane adhesives. The better
match is a general purpose
black urethane. That is part number is 7493A35, which should sell for
about
$10.80. You will need one package per mount. This kit is a 2 part
mixture and
is supposed to cure in 5 minutes. Best to chose this one because
of its quick set time,
flexibility, and good adhesion to rubber. This 2 part mixture is
critical because it cures by a chemical reaction, and not simply by air
drying. That means that you can apply it as thick as
you want and finish the job quickly, a lot more
quickly. Wish I would have known this before I bought those
DELRIN mounts. . ..
You'll probably want, or HAVE to remove the motor mount before filling
it. These instructions cover just about any lower or rear motor mount.
Follow the factory shop manual for the procedure to
remove the mount(s) (one at a time). The Avenger/Sebring mount
has a few gaps at the edges, these are what you are going to FILL to
make them solid. Not so solid as a DELRIN mount, it won't vibrate
as much as a "real" solid mount. If you do both the front and
rear mount, it will vibrate, still not as bad as a 100% solid mount.
First clean it with a good, long bristle brush, and regular dish soap
(dawn?). At this point, you want to get the
major dirt and road debris off, then use some engine degreaser. Let
that soak
and then towel off. Wash repeatedly with dish soap until you
can't rub anymore black stuff off of the
rubber. A cleaner surface will help the adhesive bond to the rubber.
Now tape the holes on one side the mount closed. That will let you fill
one
side of the mount first, then the other. Otherwise, duh, the adhesive
will just run out
the other side.
Prepare your supplies! A board or some cardboard wrapped in simple
aluminum foil works well
for mixing the stuff on. You want a mixing board that won't soak up any
of the
hardener. A body filler spreader is good for mixing the resin and
hardener. It lets you spread the mixture back and forth without adding
air bubbles. The mixing sticks are needed as a helping hand while
filling the mount holes. One package of adhesive includes 10 envelopes
of
hardener, and resin. You will need 5 envelopes for each side of the
mount.
Follow the directions for mixing the adhesive, 5 packs of each at a
time! Work quickly, but try not to get air bubbles in the
mixture. Use the mixing sticks to work the first five paks of each
mixture, into the mount. Let
it cure for 20 minutes or so. Peel the tape out of the back
side of the mount. Notice how it has
kept the adhesive from running through to the other side.
A pair of needle-nose pliers may help peel out the stubborn pieces of
any tape that is stuck in the adhesive.
Mix the other five packets and apply to this side of the mount, and let
cure for 20 minutes. Walla, your new hardened motor mount
is ready to be reinstalled.
Here is a sample if a finished motor
mount:
Basically, do it anyway you want, as long as the finished product looks
similar to that.
Do you dare try it with the motor mount IN the car? I think it
would work, just be a LOT harder to manage!
