1967 4-CYL MERCURY ENGINE:
The main engine does not seem to have a charging circuit, and seems to be a blend of the Magneto and Thunderbolt versions.
After probing the engine electrical system with a VOM, I did not find any +12VDC or higher sources from any electrical point (besides the battery to solenoid, and starter) in the motor.  There are a few places where I get negative voltage, but it varies from -12 to -24.  The engine will run without the battery, and pull start without a battery.

There is no stator around the flywheel either, and there is a timing belt that goes to the pully of what should be the alternator, or magneto.  The diagram shows the stator being used to charge the battery, there isn't one.  The other diagram shows the alternator charges the battery.  This is why I think it is a mixture of both engines, or, simply the magneteo version without the stator.

Once the engine is started for the first time, it runs fine, it will idle, and idle in gear for trolling.  However, once I shut it off, then srart it later, it stalls at idle, and idle in gear.  I have to trim it up high, pull it down, and then go into gear quickly at about half throttle, then back off a bit.  Runs at full throttle no problem.   It still will not idle when the controller is in the neutral position.  I am used to it now, so maybe it is not such a problem for me anymore.  It just sucks when going to the dock at low speed, and the thing stalls.  THat;s why I bought the 34lb electric motor.  I have tried 87, and 94 octane gas, no difference in the stalling issues.  In fact, 94 seemed to cause backfiring.

9/21/2002:  There is an adjustment to raise or lower the pitch of the motor, either close to the transom, or away from the transom.  This means, the durther UP you go, the prop points more of an angle.  Well, when I got it, it was one hole away from the transom, so I put it all the way down.  Recently, I moved it back away from the transom, to the third hole.  Now the motor idles, and idles in gear.  Figure that one out, but hey, it idles now!

JOHNSON 2-CYL SEAHORSE ENGINE:
It runs while constantly priming it, so there is a problem there.  It also needs a carb. rebuild kit, if there is one out there, the float does not work with the old cork one.  Other than that, it is in good shape, and runs.  It needs two springs in the pull start mechanism, and one of the teeth are broken where it catches.  Originally, it did not run, someone reversed the spark plugs. . .

ELECTRIC
None

CONTROLLER
My brother broke the key off in the ignition, so I had to leave that in the ON position, and add a start button.  I also fixed the neutral switch, and lubed the interior of the controller.  It will need new wires eventually, but I taped them, and siliconed them up.  August of 2002, I wired a starter button, and put it in the side of the boat next to the controller.  Works just fine.

DASH
Nothing works except the lights.  The Speedo and Tach are usless right now.  The vacuum line is there for the speedo, just haven't hooked it up yet, I need the rear attachment.  I don't know what wires to use for the tach, someone has both wires black, so it's a 50/50 hook-up.  8/12/2002: I tried it, and the motor grounds out and stalls, or the tach pegs in either direction depending on the polarity.

FLOOR
Who ever put the new wood, ran it all the way back to the aft compartment (batteries), and did not leave an opening for the bilge pump.  I will have to drill out a square door to put the pump down below the floor.  Where it is now, probably would not help if the boat took on water.

HULL?
I did empty a few gallons of water the last time I removed the bottom plug, and kept the trailer up with a large brick.  Some was rain water, so I am not sure of actuall water taken on from the river.  Very small amount though.  The hull is sound, there is no water coming from the hull when filled up with water, so that's good.

WHATEVER IS SCREWED DOWN!
Most of the fixtures and cleats are loose, but I have been using aluminum rivits to fix some of the items and trim.  I will have to tighten the cleats, and add a few.  There are only three cleats,. one center top bow, and two aft, port and starboard.  Using bumpers is almost uselsess with the cleats in these positions.  The boat itself has a rubber pad all the way around, thin, but there.

HATCH
Only needs a seal to stop rain water from getting in.  I cover the boat with a tarp anyway, but a simple trunk type seal should do the trick.