Other CHEAP performance mods

Default

SIMPLE, CHEAP, OTHER MODIFICATIONS

TB SEPARATOR REMOVAL

This mod is for those of you who don't care that much about drivability. The mod may hurt the lower end but should help the top end. So if you can keep high RPMs during shifting then it should help you.

BEFORE AFTER

Looking into a throttle body bore.

GROUND OUT CENTER OF BUTTETFLY IN TB

This is how you can get more flow from your stock TB. By griding the center line of the butterfly, it increases air-flow a bit. This is for that "every little bit counts" approach to gaining power. Do not do this with the TB in the car, you'll get filings in the motor!

Do both sides, so when it's OPEN, you see flat spots instead of the bumps.

OTHER LINK SUGGESTIONS
RELOCATE THE IAT SENSOR

NO PICTURE SUGGESTIONS:

PORT & POLISH THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD
PORT AND POLISH THE THROTTLE BODY
REMOVE ANY ACCORDIAN INTAKE TUBE SECTIONS WITH STAINLESS PIPE MANDREL BENDS.
OPEN YOUR AIR-BOX
GUT THE PRE-CATALYST SECTIONS (NOT FOR STATES WITH EMISSIONS TESTING)

CATALYST/EXHAUST MODIFICATIONS

I know for a fact that this is ilegal in all 48 contiguous united states, but is known to have been done. Inside The Catalyst looks like a honeycomb, except the holes go straight rhough. The catalyst is rightly named for what it does, it is a catalyst in converting toxic exhaust into other elements like H20, and CO2, and back to O2 and Nitrogen. The blending of usually platinum, rhodium and/or palladium, and other elements cause the catalyst. The catalytic converter must be HOT in order for it to work, so short drives to the local store and back make the device almost useless, because it doesn't get hot enough, especially on small I4 engines. This is why they are palaced a lot more closely to the engines now, and there are PRE-CATS on the echaust header pipes.

The unfortunate result of the catalyst and pre-cats, is a restriction in the exhaust system. THE MOD: By hollowing out, and putting a pipe though the converter removes the restriction. You can use a larger catalyst (what they call a high-flow), but it still must work in states that reqire emissions testing. The penalty for removing or altering that cat is supposed to be a 50,000.00 fine, and/or imprisonment (it's a FEDERAL law). You could also produce the same SMALL results by using all mandrel bent pipes in the exhaust system.

There is no such thing as a HIGH FLOW catalyst, because it would defeat it's purpose by; allowing more exhaust flow due to reducing the size of the element inside (which has to be done if the Cat is the SAME SIZE as the one you had!), compromising the conversion of the exhaust gases.

More than likely, it's a slightly larger catalyst (Maybe a 1/2" more total, 1/4" on each side, which is barely noticable), allowing more flow due to the size of the device, and not the reduction of the element. High-Flow cats also take longer to heat up, reducing their effectiveness in some cases. In states where Emissions testing is mandatory, the system must be hot in order to produce passing results.

Removing the MAF Screen (Not applicable to cars WITHOUT a MAF sensor, of course)

This mod can improve airflow through the intake by eliminating the protective screen which covers the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor. This sensor is attached directly to the airbox. By removing the screen, airflow efficiency can be increased by as much as 15%. There is some controversy over whether or not the benefits of the screen's ability to reduce airflow turbulence, outweighs it's removal and reduced airflow restriction. So, as with all mods, do your own research so you can make an educated decision before performing this modification.

With some needle nose pliers, carefully begin breaking the MAF screen out in small pieces. Use caution when doing this because you don't want to damage the MAF sensor which is contained inside the duct.

Once the screen is broken out, what's left is the screen's frame.

If you look closely at the inside of the screen's frame, you'll notice a locking tab located on opposite sides of each other. These two tabs are what holds the screen and frame in place. By prying these tabs up the frame should come out fairly easily.

Once the screen and frame are removed, simply reattach the MAF duct to the airbox lid, and the airbox lid back to the airbox in reverse order. Be sure to reconnect the MAF sensor to the wire harness connector when you're finished.