Changing your Drive/Driven gears for more off the line results

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DRIVE GEAR MODIFICATION

This began when I got a 2000 Chrysler Cirrus as a Company car. I noticed right away that this car had what seemed more horsepower than my Avenger. Fact is, it only has five more HP, plus it's about 300lbs lighter. The Cirrus goes from zero to sixty in ten seconds! I never timed my Avenger, but I know it isn't ten seconds.

So, when I broight this up on ASEC, someone suggested I get the gears from a 2.0 Stratus's trransmission. The gears are lower then the Avenger, delivering more torque and hp to the wheels. Well, this is how it's done!

What you need:
A set of new drive gears from a 99 Dodge stratus with the 2.0 motor (part# 4773275). This a DRIVE GEAR, and a DRIVEN GEAR. The difference between the Avengers' and Stratus' is, the stock gears in the Avenger are a 47/49 tooth count, and the stratus gears are a 46/50 count. This makes for better acceleration. You can see the slight difference in teeth in the gears, so the Drive gear is slightly smaller, while the Driver gear is slightly larger. This works of the same principal as under-drving your crank pully, except this is with the Transmission.

You will have to have these gears replaced at a shop (if they will even go there), or if you are a decent mechanic, you can do it yourself. The time to do this is said to be about two hours, with the right tools. The best wsy I read was to jack the car up, remove the driver side tire, and the plastics in front of the Transmission. You must remove everything covering the gears also. There will be some trans fluid in there, so get somethig to catch that.

The tools/parts you will need are:
Stratus 2.0 drive & driven gear (4773275)
10mm socket and at least 9 inch extension (to remove gear cover)
15mm socket (drive gear bolts)
32mm socket (main drive gear center bolt)
1 1/2 inch socket (to remove the driven gear center bolt)
Steering wheel puller (to remove the driven gear - gear pully will not work)
New gear cover gasket, or rtv sealer (wait 18 hours if using RTV before running)
.5 Quarts ATF+3 (top off fluid if needed)
*new bearing ring & cups if needed

Tighten the gear bolts to 200ft-Lbs

Remove, and replace the gears with the replacements exactly as they were. Make sure you put all the parts back in, that came out with the O.E. gears, in their correct spots. Make sure the metal tabs are folded back down on the drive gears' 15mm bolts. You can damage the system if you forget the little spacer ring that is on the back side of the gears. A gear puller will not work, I read, that's why it said to use a steering wheel puller if you have to. Do not use ANYTHING else to try and remove a gear, use the puller.

Also inspect the bearing ring, and cup while the gears are off. They should still be pressed into the transmission. If loose, first; make sure they are not worn, and second; if they are a little loose tap them with a hammer carefully to make sure they are fully seated.

If you hear ANY NOISES what-so-ever, immediately stop and check your installation. Is it important you assemble the parts in reverse order of removal! If need be, document your complete removal procedure! A simple thing, like forgetting the put the tabs down over the 15mm driver gear bolts can cause damage.

The results:
Better 0-60 time.
Quicker acceleration.

The downsides:
Lower gas milage, city driving.
Top speed reached at greater RPM limit.

Your top speed is going to be roughly 135MPH, that is the limiter OE. However, the RPM limit is also set at 6200-6300. If you top out at 6200 before reaching 135, you won't go any faster (but who needs better than 125?).