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Avon Gorge
Cheddar Gorge
Bristol Area
Wye Valley
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The Amphitheatre
Not the best cliff in the whole world, but there are a few decent routes
here, together with most of the bouldering to be found in Avon (which is
very little and rather poor).
Gollum's Cave
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Good, steep bouldering is to be had in the cave above the top of Battleship
Buttress. It is rather tucked away, but a little exploration will prove
fruitful. (Note that access is not possible from the Amphitheatre itself)
Take mats/spotters, as the landing is a little rocky, and you will probably
be horizontal when you hit it. There are several obvious problems, and
countless variations, ranging from about 5b upwards, though the best are
probably in the 6a-6c range.
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Harvey's Wall
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The vertical reddish wall at the base of Battleship Buttress, by the
start of an old railway tunnel. The bouldering to be had here is easier
than Gollum's but is severely polished. Try the low traverse, left to right
(and back again!), with or without using the rest at the base of Red Thread. |
Gammer Gurton's Needle
E2 5c |
This route is great, it would be worth two stars, but tends to
take a long time to dry. Follow the easy crack for 15ft then
teeter upwards via some technical bridging on generally wet shot holes
to another crack, and a peg. Now, prepare to be pumped!! Frantically
climb round the overhang above, pausing to place your last decent
runner before the top. The groove above is easier, but still hard
enough to keep you concentrating, until you can top out and belay off
dodgy (dead?) saplings. Great fun.
AS |
Hodge's Pin
VS 4c |
A not entirely crap route, though the first 15' are rather dirty. Climb
the left to right rising break, starting behind a tree at the left hand
end of Harvey's Wall. The break provides plentiful handholds, and there
are loads of sloping footholds. Take as much gear as you want (mostly mid-sized
hexes), because there's loads of it. The interest is provided by what the
guide book describes as 'an overhanging layback'. Well, it's nearly a layback,
but its' not overhanging. The tree belay at the top looks insubstantial,
and has suffered from overuse, so back it up, and maybe scramble off rightwards.
JB (on-sight) |
A Sticht in Time
E3 5b ?
(E1 5a?) |
A rather unbalanced route, starting below the diagonal crack of Hodges
Pin, which is reached direct, a couple of bomber wires here protect
the rest of the climbing, as the peg mentioned in the guide book is
missing. This isn't too bad though as a series of big flat holds leads
you up to the top. Massively overgraded, and not really worthwhile, E1
5a??
AS |
Red Thread
E2 5c |
A cheeky little route that takes the red rock above Harvey's Wall.
A bouldery start followed by some pocket pulling up the wall past a solitary
peg. There's only two pieces of gear in the route but that doesn't really
matter as it's dead easy (Most people only clip the peg). Certainly one
of the easiest and shortest E2s in Avon but never mind, you can't look
a gift horse in the mouth. (Whatever that means).
CS (on-sight) |
Blue Jay Way
E3 5c
(E2 5c ?) |
A short route with all its interest at the top above the bendy peg.
Boulder up easy moves to below the peg, and decide if you can be bothered
to continue. It's pretty easy to pass the peg and then some good footwork
will see you on the top. The peg's probably not that bad - there's no other
gear, although a bouldering mat (as you are at Harvey's wall) may instill
confidence. Easy for E3, in fact not actually E3! Do Red Thread instead
(which probably isn't E2 either)!
RS (on-sight)
This route follows the triangular niche, and shallow continuation groove
above it, through some rather unappealing rock. The climbing up to the
peg is easy enough. The peg itself is a thin, bendy and now rusty, knifeblade.
(Though Riis proved it will hold body weight.) Thin, delicate moves up
the groove are the crux, where good, flexible bridging is an asset. When
I did it the holds were dusty, necessitating on the go cleaning. Now the
holds are absent, owing to Riis undercutting one of the looser blocks!
Unrepeated in its current state, with a few more loose blocks to pull off
yet! Repeat ascentionists beware!
AS
Now repeated, completely without the missing holds, but probably still
not worth E3. Beware of loose holds at the top. In case people can't find
the description in the guide book, it is in the addendum at the back.
PH |
Lower Amphitheatre
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Herbsman Shotgun
E3 4b,5c |
This curving ramp line actually looks quite impressive from the road
and the holds aren't very apparent until you get close up. Despite all
this,however, the route itself offers little difficulty. The guidebook
mentions something about a tricky mantelshelf, but its actually just stepping
up on a large hold. The moves before the first bolt are OK and the second
bolt is also reached without much problem. The only dodgy section is getting
off. The guidebook sets you up for an exit on "small but positive holds".
This should perhaps read "medium size holds that are all the wrong way
round". Anyway, don't panic 'cos you have got that bolt below your feet
and if you are wearing asbestos overalls you could fall off and slide down
the slab. Over graded but the bolts are nice.
RS (on-sight) |
Study Leave
E2 5b |
The ramp line and white stained groove to the left of Obscurata looks
blank and hard from a distance, but closer inspection reveals reasonable
holds and a total lack of gear. Scramble up to the sapling at one third
height, squeak the boots and set off up the groove. A couple of technical
moves lead to a finish on jugs. Multiple Friend belay above, abseil from
the pegs to the right to retreat.
AS (FA - A Smith, P Hemsley - 15th May 2000) |
Obscurata
E3 6a |
An excellent little micro route, packing in lots of excitement in its
short length. It's just left of the arete next to Little Red Rodney and
takes a blank looking wall past a bolt. Head up the easy lower section,
placing some very solid friends in a break. Then cruise up the wall on
big jugs and make a big scary stretch (if you are < 6'2" you will have
to be a bit imaginative) to clip the bolt. Baffling and insecure moves
lead past the bolt then teeter left on a sloper and micro crimp to a suprisingly
hard top out. Belay on weird pegs.
OW |
Little Red Rodney *
E2 5b |
A route for the gear minimalist. Take 3 long quickdraws,
a size 2 nut and gear for a belay. The nut is mainly for confidence and
none of the gear is awkward to place but is unfortunately all on the bottom
two thirds of the route along with all of the easy climbing. The second
peg is there, it is hidden by the small grey ledge so don't worry! From
the ledge think happy thoughts and move with great care and grace up to
the top. Care and grace are needed to ensure that the dodgy flakes and
rather dusty, loose rock stay put and don't follow you down to the bottom.
Take care, falling from the top would involve at least a 30ft whipper if
not total deck out. Having said that the climbing is good and not hard
so long as you keep your head. The belay is ok so long as you accept that
the large nail is an acceptible substitute for a peg and you don't mind
smelling of onions for a week. It is easy to solo up Stranded (S) to set
up a top rope if you want to practice.
PH (on-sight) |
Rocker's Revenge **
VS 4b,4c |
One of the better VS's in the Gorge, more consistently enjoyable than
many. The top pitch is high in the grade, and is an essential tick for
the VS leader. The first pitch involves pleasant, easy climbing with interest
being provided by a crack near the top. If you are the first to climb this
pitch after the winter, beware of biting ants in the crack, which may cause
you to impersonate a victim of St Vitus' dance - amusing for those watching
from the suspension bridge! Belay above the crack on a ledge. Remember
to get an upward pulling nut in, as this ledge is bum size only. The second
pitch follows ramps up the steep red wall above. First heading leftward,
then (scarily ?) turning right and up. The crux is almost at the top, steep
moves on good pockets, but fairly close to gear. Well worth it.
JB (on-sight) |
Spiny Proboscis Nematodes *
E1 5b |
Paddle up an easy slab, aiming for a threadable borehole at 30'. This
provides an idea of the route to come - the gear is spaced! The climbing
gets progressively more interesting, with protection provided by a couple
of pegs, until the awkward balancy crux. The moves on this route are not
those usually found in Avon, relying more on friction. Fortunately, the
rock is excellent with very little, if any, polish. A further peg can be
clipped and a few moves allow some gear to be placed below a large bush.
Once the ledge behind the bush is gained, the top follows easily. High
in the grade, possibly E2?
JB (2nd)
Easy moves get you to the threadable borehole of fossible, use a thin
sling (dynema) as the one in place looks like a bit of mouldy sack rope.
Continue up placing solid gear at long intervals. Battling through the
large bush near the top is a good idea as there is a rather cheeky friend
3 placement behind the block. Top out and wander over to the trees about
a mile back from the edge to set up the belay. Return to the edge to drip
blood on your second from all of the bramble scratches and marvel at the
superb positions and moves you have just done. Walk down the glacis and
over the ridge to a decent gully (ish), decend just right of beuroprat.
PH |
Giant's Cave Buttress ***
VS 4c,-,4c |
Avon's classic VS, with a traditional feel. This is the obvious buttress/arete
near the Suspension bridge. The route starts about 100ft above the road.
The first pitch is rather well polished at its lower end, but there is
some reasonable gear, and pleasant climbing. There are variants either
side of the arete, but are both poor. The second pitch is a doddle up an
easy slab, onto the spacious belay ledge at the top. Here's where things
really get interesting. You step out round the arete onto the face, with
plenty of exposure, and face the crux. The peg is no longer there, but
you can get a good wire in. Wave to the weekenders in the Giant's Cave
and pose for their cameras, before cranking upwards. The climbing beyond
the crux is superb, in an awesome position, past good gear, and some cool
pockets. It would be nice if this pitch went on forever. A superb climb,
one of the best VS routes around.
JB (alternate leads) |
Upper Amphitheatre
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A1 Funk
E1 5a |
[This route isn't really on the Upper Amphitheatre walls,
but then it's not in the Lower Amphitheatre either. It's on a red wall
above the left hand end of the big glacis at the top of Rockers Revenge
etc. - JB]
Fun pockety climbing up the short red wall above the let hand side
of the lower amphitheatre wall. After a minor treck through the jungle
at the base of the slab ascend the slightly overhanging triangular arette/butressey
job. At about half height there is, according to the guide book, a thread.
It is lying, there is no thread, only a big scar where it has been removed
by some heavy booted bugger to put the wind up people who want to bag a
easy E1. Exit directly, do not go right as this will involve you falling
off and being burried under the rock you have just pulled off. It is an
easy exit for climbs finishing up the left hand side of the amphitheatre
as it leads onto the footpath at thetop. You don't need a harness to do
anything unless you are belaying someone up, or even better don't unpack
you harness and go to the upper wall instead.
PH |
Pocketed Wall *
VS 4c |
One of several worthwhile VS routes on the Upper Amphitheatre walls.
Ab down from a tree to a ledge of ivy below the wall. At the time of writing
it is not clear whether the ledge is supported by rock or not, so don't
unclip from the ab rope until you've got some anchors in! You probably
abseiled down Cave Left (another good VS) so wander leftwards for about
20' and belay on a peg and nuts. Pocketed Wall climbs directly above the
peg past three pockets, with excellent wires, threads and assorted ingenious
gear. The botanist will enjoy the varied collection of small shrubs encountered
en
route. A pleasant climb all round, perhaps best done in winter before
the wall becomes excessively overgrown.
JB (on-sight) |
In Through the Out Door *
VS 4b,4b |
An odd little route which provides the prospective caver with much
entertainment. Can be done in one pitch and, depending on the over-powering
odour of pigeon crap, this may well be the best bet. Rap down into the
cave from above. This provides a bit of amusement (especially on a bank
holiday weekend). The route then wanders off left towards a big cave/tube.
Climb into the bottom and out of the top. Its not too narrow so head torches
aren't required. The top hole is very small and getting out is the crux.
From here climb directly to the top of the cliff. Fun, but can be very
smelly.
CS (on-sight) |
Dream of Brown Trousers **
E2 5b |
Bring a spare pair of y-fronts for this one. This complete chossy sandbag
is probably one of my favourites in Avon for some masochistic reason. It's
a great place to show off to the adoring punters as it leaves right from
the railed off cave itself. Step out to the right and arrange some protection.
Little do you know at the time that this is it! Some facey crux moves lead
you to a break where you can practise your rockery designing skills on
the slope below. Yelling "oh shit!" and "below" as you pull off blocks
is obligatory. Make sure you go the wrong way straight up the friable wall
and arrange a good belay in some nice gorgonzola so you can sit back and
watch your second kick every hold off the entire pitch and make it even
harder. A lovely route. Am I exaggerating about the looseness? Go see for
yourself.
AG (on-sight) |
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