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Avon Route Guide

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Avon Gorge
Cheddar Gorge
Bristol Area
Wye Valley

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The Avon Gorge comprises 3 main climbing areas, each the site of long disused quarries. At the city end of the gorge, Suspension Bridge Buttress provides the highest concentration of quality routes in the HVS - E2 range. Notable routes include Hell Gates, Limbo and the Earl of Perth. This buttress is also the largest natural face in the Gorge and is well provided with good wire, friend and thread runners.

Further downstream, Main Wall typifies a rather different style of climbing. Here the rock is quarried, and the climbing bold. Many routes are protected by ancient pegs, and wire slots are rather more sparse. The standards here tend to be higher, though there are plenty of decent routes from HVS upwards. There are too many classics here to mention, though Malbogies, the most famous route hereabouts, should not be missed (despite it's polish).

Finally, the Sea Walls/Unknown Area combination provides the most eclectic mix of routes to found in the gorge. From easy multi-pitch routes in the central section around Morpheus, through mid-grade gems such as Padansac, New Horizons II and Ladder of Desire, to the cheesy horrors on the Exploding Galaxy Wall and the nails hard technicalities of Upper Wall.

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