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Avon Gorge
Cheddar Gorge
Bristol Area
Wye Valley
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The Cheddar Gorge
There is an agreed ban on climbing in the Cheddar Gorge during the summer
months due to the popularity of the Gorge with tourists (see the Avon and
Cheddar guide book for details). The rock is often loose, so great care
should be taken - any rock dislodged will usually end up on the road. Having
said that, there are some awesome multi-pitch routes here, together with
some excellent single pitch sport / semi-bolted routes. Worth the effort,
and the cold fingers!
Great Rock
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Mourning Glory (*)
VS, 410' |
The tallest route in the Gorge, I think. Three of
the six pitches are ungraded, and contain quite a bit of loose rock and
ivy, and the odd nettle. The route still deserves a * however!
Some interesting moves take you past a peg on the second pitch, the fourth
has a pleasant offwidth (you didn't think they existed did you?) and the
fifth (crux) a beautiful little corner with good gear. At the end
of the fifth is the most comfortable belay you will ever experience: sit
on the perfect seat provided by the tree, get a sling around it, nut/friend
in the wall above and look down to watch your second and appreciate that
you are above the level of Sunset Butress and anything you drop will take
five whole seconds to hit the deck! Note the guide is slightly out of date:
the yew tree (end of pitch 2) is now just a stump. There are two
cracks which fit the description of 'obvious flake crack' for pitch 4,
you want the left hand one! And the obvious tree belay at the end
of pitch 4 is off route, if you use it you will need to traverse back right
either immediately or after climbing a bit more offwidth - single ropers
beware rope drag, consider removing the first piece of gear you get in
the corner after getting the next bit in (protects the second too).
CC (on-sight) |
High Rock
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The Slab **
VD, 60' |
The obvious road side slab makes an good solo. Positive holds and good
rock by Cheddar standards.
CS (on-sight solo) |
Sceptre **
VS 4b,4a,4a,4c |
A beautifully drawn out first section following the start of Coronation
Street (the E1 Cheddar classic), with good gear and a straight corner to
follow. Moments of thought provoking technicality followed by power tripping
lunges make a great start. Moving right, from the hanging belay at the
top of pitch 2, across thirty feet of ivy makes a perfect pitch for even
the most adventurous Fowler wanabe. The final pitch, an unprotected corner
requiring flexibility and a cool head, completes this rather esoteric marvel.
JL (alternate on-sight leads) |
Acid Rock
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Knight's Climb **
D |
The first route in the Gorge, and being first timers there we decided
it was one of those things that has to be done for the sake of history!
The climbing is nothing special but the situations, for a Diff, are stunning.
The climb is approached from Wind Rock, through much vegetation. Two chimneys,
one so wide it doesn't count but the other fairly tight (especially if
you're carrying a rucsack with your shoes in!) lead to the top of a pinnacle
(excellent view). Then step accross "to the mainland" (amusing move) and
you're at the top already!
CC |
Farewell to the Working Classes *
E5 6b, 60' |
A well protected route taking the central line of bolts at the bottom
of acid rock. The first bolt is awkward to clip and a long way off the
deck. The crux, passing the third bolt, seems to have had a hold or two
fall off and the consensus was that it was "well hard" for 6b (We all frigged
it). Once this is passed, pleasant climbing leads to some crappy tat before
the excellent upper wall is climbed, with bit of slapping for the finishing
jugs (or falling off). Seven bolts and some mouldy tat protect. Given F7b.
CS (not climbed clean) |
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