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Avon Gorge
Cheddar Gorge
Bristol Area
Wye Valley
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Holcombe Quarry
A nice disused quarry about 20 miles outside Bristol. The quarries offer
some of the only sport climbing to be had in these parts, and are well
worth a day trip. There are a few routes in the VS to E1 (F5- to F6a) but
you probably need to be climbing F6c to really get the best out of it.
If you need a guide it can be printed out from: www.wyeclimb.com.
There are two quarries, Holcombe 1 and Holcombe 2, the latter containing
the bulk of the sport climbing.
Ugly Buttress
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The meat of this buttress is a huge roof, crossed by several routes
ranging from 6c to 7b+. There are some easier routes on the left wing,
which can serve as a nice warm up. |
Crocker Free Zone
F5+ |
An extremely easy HVS, with only one hard move on it. Paddle
up to the overlap, step left and pull over, a couple of more interesting
moves higher up make it a worthwhile route. Crossing the overlap without
the step left is about 5c/6a.
OW (on-sight) |
Take the Bull by the Horns
F6c |
An excellent route, sadly I failed on the last move of the
crux sequence! Take the delicate low wall below the narrowest part of the
overhang past one bolt (long sling). Get below the roof, clip a peg, then
go. A few powerful moves on suprising holds make up the crux, a powerful
final pull brings jugs and a sit down rest. Easy ground to the top (apparently).
OW (failed - if anyone does it in better style please replace this
review) |
Intrinseca Wall
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This has two sections, a lovely lightly overhanging wall
and a blank slabby section with some real desperates on. Probably the best
wall in Holcombe Two. |
Vicious Eyes
F5- |
An easy but run out route. Entertaining, but not hard enough
to warm you up.
OW
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Peck Deck
F6c+ |
The middle line of bolts provides an excellent, sustained
route. Climbing past the first two bolts is fairly easy, then the holds
run out and it gets really interesting. Spanning across the tramline cracks
provides an easy but powerful solution, there are others. After the last
bolt a good break gives the chance for a rest before a few final vicious
pulls reach the double bolt belay. Genius.
OW |
The Wall
F6c |
Easier than Peck Deck, the right hand of three bolt lines
gives an excellent technical line. Some fantastic long moves, laybacking
and a few fingerlocks make this an engrossing route. Reach the high break,
then traverse to clip the last bolt on Peck Deck and head to the same belay.
OW |
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