A Little Light Music
E5 6c (F7b+) |
This route takes the ramp/scoop in the steep slab left of Highway One.
Easy climbing, up to a ledge, and past an unnecessary (and whobbly)
peg runner, lead you to the meat of the route. A couple of steep pulls
and delicate footwork (2 bolts) set you upfor the crux, a mad crank on
2 tiny crimps, and a big throw for the obvious flat hold. Another
bolt, and more hard climbinmg lead to a ledge and a final bolt before
topping out. Great slabby climbing, and if you don't like the crimps,
another way to do the crux is a 6ft horizontal dyno!! Have fun!!
AS (redpoint) |
Highway One ***
E4 6a (F6c+) |
A fantastic route taking the innocuous looking rising scoop line on
the left hand face of the quarry. Overall it is very thin, quite sustained
and very fingery. Start on a broad rib and head up to the corner of the
overlap above. This section is pretty tricky requiring very steady nerves
and footwork. It is a relief to get to the second bolt. The first crux
is getting to the first resting ledge. Iron fingers and smooth footwork
are essential. Leaving the resting ledge is tricky but there are plenty
of bolts. The main crux is reaching the second ledge, where there seem
to be hardly any holds! After the second ledge things ease off a bit, but
the finally steepening seam saps your final reserves of strength. Belay
on bolts. Overall it is a case of concentration and faith in the tiny holds.
An incredible route.
OW (ground up) |
Brink of Solarity **
HVS 4c
(VS 4c) |
The ramp and rib line just right of the final corner gives pleasant
climbing. The gear can feel a bit spaced at times but the climbing is never
hard. Worth doing.
CS (on-sight) |
Pickpocket **
HVS 5a
(VS 4c) |
The next crack to the left gives a brilliant climb. Sustained
and balancy. The best route on the slab.
CS (on-sight) |
Approaching Maturity
E2 |
Pleasant slab climbing, left from the obvious double cracks
of the The Baldest. Climb past a few horizontal cracks (opposed nut placement),
to a solid thread halfway up the climb. Climb away from the gear with some
delicate unprotected moves to the top.
SvZ (on-sight) |
The Baldest **
E1 5b
(HVS 5a) |
The thin double cracks to the left of Pharos don't quite reach the
ground. Reaching them is a little bold but once gained they give joyous
climbing to the top the slab. Never unduly hard and hopelessly over graded.
CS (on-sight)
This climb is very true to its name, although with some thought and
a little ingenuity gear can be placed to make this climb the classic it
is. Start in the middle of the ramp (45 degrees increasing to about 55
at the top) and make balanced moves up the tram lines until the holds become
more prominent. Use the right hand line to your advantage; side pulling
and high stepping up the rock. The moves are of the same standard all the
way up the climb making for a genius route. Take care at top, there are
a few loose pebbles to knock onto your belayer!
AN |
Pharos **
S 4a |
A good first lead. Loads of protection and big holds make this a very
reasonable prospect. Just follow the crack! Take care on the muddy ledge
at the top as it is covered in small rocks which are prone to landing on
unsuspecting seconds.
CS (on-sight) |
|
To the right and behind an area of trees is probably the easiest E2
in the world : |
Reggae in the Grass
E2 5b
(?) |
More of a boulder problem than a route. Climbing the steepest part
of the slab behind the tree and rocking over onto small, suspect looking
holds requires more faith in the rock than one might want. Exiting left
from the niche is quite scary, as the holds are awkward, and the drop is
a long one. Bit of a silly route really.
CS |
|
"..Quite scary.." he says. To be brutally frank, I nearly shat
my pants on this one. The crux at 20' is fairly easy, but the awkward exit
moves are nearer 35'. In my experience, hitting the ground from 25' is
painful, so don't go trying it here.
JB (solo) |
Zee Zee Top
E2 5b
|
Climb into the red niche right of Photon, and out of
it via a zig zagging crack (Rock 1 crucial) and exit with care into
brambles.
AS (FA A.Smith, roped solo 17/12/01) |
Mr Prickle
VS 4b
|
Take the slab, ramp and corner parallel to Ballista,
with a distinct lack of gear, and a terrible bramble infested top
out.
AS (FA. A. Smith, unseconded - don't blame him!!) |