Avon Route Guide

Avon Gorge

Cheddar Gorge
Bristol Area
Wye Valley

Sea Walls

The right hand end of Sea Walls has long been popular with top-ropers. As a consequence, many once good routes now bare greater resemblance to the Bristol ice-rink than rock. There are, however, many quality climbs still available. There are bold single pitches, several of the better sub-HVS multi-pitch routes, mixed-ethic desperates, and some excellent low extremes. It's well worth looking for the better routes here, as the far right wing is not representative of the crag as a whole.

Vertically Limited VS 4c	Climb the groove in the left hand end of the problem pages, clipping the peg runners on Irish girl as side runners. Probably done before as an escape pitch, it gives Ok climbing, but a committing top out on potentially mobile holds. AS (FA? - A Smith, I Sanders - 20 Jan 2001)
Dirty Stop-out E3 6a/b	Boulder up the wall 6ft left of Irish girl, passing the peg is hard, but leads to good holds. However, like its neighbouring routes the top-out is a nervous one, and you'll need a good belayer if you pull a hold off, like I did, cheers Ian! AS (FA - A Smith, I Sanders - 20 Jan 2001)
Dark Crystal * E3 5b,6a	An excellent route, steep and strenuous. The first pitch takes an obvious corner, high above the ramp at the left hand end of Sea Walls. Whilst anchoring the belayer, you may notice that the crack in the corner is made of cheese. Do not let this put you off, just try not to fall off. Strenuous climbing up the crack, only relieved a little by bridging, makes an excellent warm up for the second pitch. This takes a thin snaking crack up the wall above. It really is steep, though well protected for those that have the energy to place gear. The crux is protected by a peg of dubious quality, and will force many to rest. If you pass the crux (plenty won't), gird yourself for the nasty top out. Sheer quality. JB (2nd with rests)
Slippery People E3 6b	A worthwhile route, short but sweet. The ledge at half height is gained nervously before a good Rock 3 provides some comfort. The crux above requires precise footwork and strong fingers. RS (redpoint)
	Richard Smith on Slippery People © J. Brooke
Indecent Exposure * E2 5b,5c,4a	The guide describes a "bold mantel", of which I found there to be many. So if you're good at bold mantelshelfing onto small ledges, then you'll probably find this route quite easy!The first pitch is a bit aimless with a very difficult boulder problem start (I jumped?) then easy ground to an awkward bold mantelshelf onto the horizontal ledge (nut and peg lower down).The second pitch is the reason why you've climbed all the way up here! The moves are great and the protection is sufficient but well spaced. Launch out boldly from the belay to the first bold mantel onto the leftwards leaning ramp (fall factor 2 up to here!). Then easier work (and lots of gear) until the ramp tapers out. From here move out left and reach (long stretch) for the narrow ledge... and do a bold mantel onto it! Stay low and try and place a good nut to the right before your arms burn up. Then reassured, power up the crack to positive holds and shakily escape left. Feel free to add as many extra bold mantels as you feel necessary!The grassy ledge is very reassuring, although you will need to climb most of the next pitch to find gear for the belay. Top out at the UBMC summer barbeque! SSJ (on-sight)
One Rawl for All * E3 5c (60')	Nice climbing up the smooth looking wall to the left of the cave. Easy ground leads to a committing mantel before the bolt can be clipped (RP's would be useful as small DMM wires seemed too wide). Fingery climbing past the bolt gains some larger holds. From here the climbing get progressively easier as height is gained above the last piece of protection until a wire placement about ten feet below the top is reached. Traverse right to finish. The peg mentioned in the description is missing but the route as a whole is still quite generous at the grade. Probably a good first E3, but don't fall off the easier ground. CS (on-sight) Balance your way onto the block 10 ft left of the cave and realise that where you booted up below was not actually the ground but a ledge along way up and not a siutable landing pad. Clip the solitary bolt and crimp your way up the slap on possibly Avons sharpest positive small holds. Nice moves leave you high above the bolt and looking for the peg on Thanotos, don't bother its missing. You can get a rock 7 in a crack high on the left, it's one for confidence more than security though. Traverse right to the ledge on much easier ground before a rock 9 only inchs before the top out. Good slab climbing and inevitably bold. RS (on-sight)
Midnight Express E6 6a	This bold route follows the groove line above and to the left of the railway ventilation tunnel. From the top of a easy rib, harder commiting moves are made up the groove to a large black flake. Place some RP's in the hollow flake behind you, and make the crux moves over a small bulge using a large sloper. A crucial Rock 2 placement here shouldn't be missed before a series of precarious moves are made up the continuation groove, on better holds. A scary step right on smears and awkwardly placed holds being of particular note. Pull over the top on good holds to belay on an in-situ sling around the tree. (NB. The tree can be gained from the right, by soloing up the easy ramp of Slurp (VS 4b) to set-up top ropes.) AS (lead after top-rope practice, with pre-placed Rock2)
To Be Is Not To Bolt E7 6b	This is effectively a direct start to midnight express,(ME) but is even more exposed, technical and pumpy. Difficult (6b) and slappy moves out of the apex of the cave lead to a dubious cluster of RP's and possibly a hand placed peg (I didn't have one) which are pumpy to put in on lead. Now, a quick scream and swearing session should pysche out your belayer, and prompt your photographer to take one last photo for your mother, just in case it all goes pear shaped. From here (hopefully recomposed) slopers, sidepulls and a big rock over should see you up into the groove of ME and the top. A very emotionally draining lead. AS (headpoint)
	Ally Smith on To Be Is Not To Bolt, E7 6b © A. Smith coll.
Tunnel Vision E4 6c (F7a+)	A tasty little number that is much more appealing than it's neighbours. Deft footwork may eliminate the dynamic move suggested in the guidebook (for the tall at least). An oversize right forearm will also prove invaluable. RS (redpoint)
Train In The Distance E6 (E7) 6c	Climb up past the crux of Tunnel Vision (without the bolt?) which can be done static with a little bit of cunning. Now with heart in mouth, step left, and pursue a thin, crimpy and technical line up to the finish of Midnight Express with just an RP2 and hand placed peg to ease your nerves. Very bold and serious, you have been warned... A new route first climbed by Dave Pickford in 2000, and first boltless ascent by A. Smith in 2001. AS (headpoint)
Puke * HVS 5a,5a,4c,4a	An unusual route which sort of snakes around all over the place and never really gets anywhere (Not unlike the A5). Best done on a razzingly hot day when peeling off those large flat holds is a distinct possibility. For the true grip factor the ropes should be crossed at least three times which makes the final move on Pitch 3 about 7b+. The largest satisfaction lies in getting to the top and knowing that at least you never have to do it again. Not an overly good climb but with some interesting sections thrown in. CS (on-sight) The first two piches make this a fine route. Fun HVS climbing with some great moves. Gear is a occasionally sparse, however, and there are some loose holds. The third pitch wanders, so mind that rope drag and there is little relief from the grassy ledges just before the belay. The last pitch is a pleasant ending although dirty at the top. A good HVS adventure. Wear a helmet. JL (on-sight)
Gronk VS 4c,4a,4b4c,4a,**	Simply, the best VS in the Gorge. A meandering excursion around Sea Walls, with some great exposure culminating in an awesome hand-traverse on pitch four. A trad classic. The first pitch is a bit necky but can be escaped on the left, making the climb low in it's grade. AF (on-sight)
Morpheus VDiff 4a,-,-,-**	I would love to say something nice about this climbing but I can't. But what I will say is that its the best of its grade in the Gorge. That doesn't really say much for the others! [What about Bob's Climb?! - JB] CS (on-sight)
Sleepwalk * S 4a,-,-,4a	This is a dead easy climb, and must be one of the easiest ways out of the gorge. It starts in the same place as Morpheus and wends its way rightwards to a rock spike belay. There is only one 4a move on the first pitch; a mantelshelf while about 5ft up. There is also only one runner on the first pitch, about 10ft up, but most of the pitch is walking anyway. The second pitch is better, more sustained, with more protection, but don't keep going while looking for the peg belay; if you look carefully you can see the scar where it used to be (get some nuts in). The third pitch again has sod all protection, and again no peg at the belay, but there is lots to belay off anyway. The last pitch is much more fun (and better protected), strenously climbing a crack (use all your sexy moves) to remote urine stinking tree belays. All in all a pleasant, relaxing climb for a day when you can't face the stress of something more difficult. OW (on-sight)
Connoisseurs Choice E2 6a	A rather tricky boulder problem start using small and polished holds sets you off into easier climbing on slightly larger and very much sharper holds. The peg can be reached without too much difficulty although holds have a distinct tendency to snap off mid move. The move after the peg is not as hard as the start but makes you think and maybe even requires your left foot being near your hand. A large jug awaits and then a quick paddle up the frictionful slab to a large spike belay. Not an altogether crap route if you like boulder problems and can't be arsed with that gear placing business. Take care on those removable holds though! RS (ground up)
	This route can be soloed at E2 and is probably only E1 to lead. AS
	It should be noted that the first statement above (E2 to solo) is pretty contentious, the second (E1 to lead) less so. Also, the first move is nearer 6b than 6a if you're a shortarse with no finger strength. JB
Shits & Giggles E6 6b	This climbs the wall and arete above the stance of ffoegs folly. Expect to encounter crumbly footholds, sharp crimps and a huge crucifix left for the arete. Sub six footers beware! more like E7 6c if you can't make the streeeeeeetch. Tip, tie your belayer in to the bolts with 15ft loops of rope, a sacrificial belayer may save some broken legs if you fail!! AS (1st ascent A. Smith M. Smith 13/11/01)
Coyote Ugly E2 5c	A variation on the crux pitch of Ffoegs Folly, easier than its parent route, but worthwhile. Climb up to the peg of Ffoegs Folly, but instead of continuing up, step left with some technical moves, and climb a thin crack to a small ledge. Easier moves on unstable blocks lead to nut belays. AS (1st ascent A. Smith, M. Gray, 29/12/00)
Ffoeg's Folly * E2 5a,5c (direct start E3 5b)	An excellent route taking the central groove line of the Sea Walls area of the Avon Gorge. The original start, a well protected HVS pitch, leads up a polished crack to a large bolted belay ledge. The direct start taking the line of holds in the wall to the right has no gear and quite a tricky last move. Anyway, from the ledge easy climbing leads up the left hand groove to a peg runner and some good wires. Here a hard balancy move leads up rightwards to the arete and a good rest. A precarious move back left into the corner is made a little less stressful by remembering to take some RP's with you. From the corner and another no hands rest, good wires (2x rock1 and rock2) protect the final very slippery lay-back up to the large jug. In all, good climbing with continued interest and good protection. Just remember your small wires. CS (on-sight)
	This route seems to have developed a reputation as a nice friendly E2, which is not entirely justified. The first pitch has now suffered terrible polish and is subsequently quite shite (but still easy). The second pitch is fairly uneventful until you reach a peg. It looks fine, but it's difficult to say. A couple of intersting moves lead you to the arete and a slopy ledge at shoulder height containing a small beaten out crack. If you've got lots of RP's you'll be fine if not then it's one crap rock 1. The gear is at best unreliable, at worst terrible and it's a long tumble onto the peg if it blows. Having wobbled through the crux get some excellent wire in the crack and, much relieved, attack the final layback which really is slippy and powerful. The final jug is so good and obvious though it's difficult to muck up. OW
	Just to throw in my twopenneth worth, I reckon this route is reasonably friendly. Yes, if you haven't got a small wire (think I used a Wallnut 0.5 ?) it would be bloody scary, but the move into the corner is easier than those past the peg (at least for the small and flexible...). And anyone who tries to layback the final crack is a loony. Thanks. JB beta-flash
	Chris Sims on the 1st pitch of Ffoeg's Folly
Fast Grip E2 5b	A quality route. Race up to the first ledge without bothering to place gear on the way, (waste of time, if you think you might fall now then don't bother with the rest of the route!), whack in a bomber size 1/2 cam and bridge up to the next ledge. Now it gets more interesting, make a terrifyingly comitting step and reach out left over what now looks like rather distant gear and thankfully clip the peg, make easy moves up from here and then reach out right to the second peg. Pull over to the enormous block, and jam a hand into it (trust me you will have a hard time taking it out again) and curse when you realize that you left those big friends at the bottom (even when you can see the perfect crack from the ground), anyway, getting over the block is not that hard so labor up and walk along to belay off the fir tree and a nut on the flake above the block. HT
	Simon Spencer-Jones on Fast Grip © J. Brooke
	Not a bad route. Admittedly the gear is well spaced, but some of it is pretty sound and the climbing is excellent. If you have no Friend 1/2 (like me) the step left above the distinctly dodgy alternatives is well scary. The moves up to the step left are highly technical, and slightly baffling at first. Above the first peg, you get some excellent steep layaway moves, with funky egyptians thrown in for those that want them. The final crack is a bit gnarly, but rounds the route off well. You don't need a big cam, just use a big nut or two at the base of the crack (place them higher up at your own risk - the block forming the crack is completely detached from the cliff!) A recommended route for when you've got your cool head on. JB (on-sight)
Pins And Needles E6/7 6b/c	This tackles the weird and virtually holdless slab right of Fast Grip, previously climbed by Chameleon Feet (E4 6b) with side runners in that route. Start as for Nightmare, and amble up to the first stance, take a nice HVSish layback flke above to arrive directly below the slab. Begin to curse the fading light and humid conitions...... Place some solid nuts on the right, and make a committing rock over onto the base of the slab. Poise, balance and faith in friction will lead you on from here, the ability to see the crux smear at the top is an advantage, but not essential (top rope practice means you know it's there!) Now hit your funny bone, and climb the remaining crack in the dark with a numb hand to the large tree belay. Overall a rather silly thing to do!! AS - FA (headpoint) A.Smith, G.Cockell.
Padansac * E2 5c	This is an innocuous looking route, but is actually very good. It follows a groove to the right of the desperate blank wall of Edgemaster. Protection is good (most of it has been thoroughly tested), and there are some cool moves. The crux is near the first peg, and requires good balance. The final moves involve exciting smearing, slopers and pumped arms. A fun route and a good choice for those wanting to try 5c on led fro the first time. JB (lead with 2 falls)
	Not much to add here apart from if you are capable of doing it and haven't, do it now. It is excellent and as safe as you like. Admittedly the hard moves are all above the available gear but as it is bombproof and the moves are great, what have you got to worry about? It also has at least three easy rest points. Make sure you take threads for the pegs as a crab will not fit (I think!). PH (lead with 2 rests)
	Martijn van Broekhuizen on Padansac, E2 5c © J Brooke '99
Anorexic Little Wierdo E1 5b	An odd little escape pitch from the top of the right hand end of the Sea Walls, it can be done after Padansac which gives a pleasant E1 outing. Ascend the finger crack with hard starting moves due to small holds and dusty rock, the crack holds get bigger and you take your place on the ledge/garden. Put some gear in the flake and consider what proportion of it is made of mud. Escape quickly to the peg and better rock on the traverse. Here the climbing is pretty easy and it is well worth stopping to look at the very weird "concretion" holds around you, all of which seem solid enough. Put a friend (2?) in the hole (there are possibly some small wire placements around too) and proceed carefully up the loose looking topout. Definitely weird but you don't need to be anorexic to climb it. RS (on-sight)
Another Little Number E1 5b	Though short at 50 feet it nonetheless manages to be a climb of two halves, 25 feet of nice balancing and two finger holds and 25 feet of the Avon yellow cheese. It is at the right hand end of The Mesa and you go straight up (just left of the little sapling). Finish as for Anorexic Little Weirdo (another gorgonzola classic!). E1 only due to the 100foot nose dive onto Simian if you slip as there is no gear on the lower half and none that would hold on the upper half. 5b is pushing it a bit though, more like 5a, and is not pumpy 'cos it leans in. An easy way to the top if you have finished anything between Solution Pollution and Don't Slip (a very easy way if you can do either of those!). You can also walk onto the grassy ledge from the top, but make sure you take the right path. PH (on-sight)
Simian HVS 5a *	Suprisingly not bad given the swathes of crap next to it. Paddle up the lower groove, get bomber gear below the bulge, span for jugs beyond the overhang, then pull over. Simple as that. OW (on-sight)
Don't Slip E5 6a *	An easy slab leads up, and leftward to a small niche and bomber wires, the brilliantly exposed, hanging arete, can be climbed on either of its sides. The righthand side involves a really committing move to stand up using a side-pull. The lefthand variant is for the tall only,and bypasses the side-pull by means of a long undercutting move, either way combined with a fair dose of adrenalin should enable the top of the arete to be gained, by hard, crimpy climbing. Easy climbing leads to bolt belays. AS (lead after minimal top-roping) Excellent friction climbing up the leaning arete left of the Aardvark. Head easily up the groove left of the Aardvark arete and arrange good gear in the bendy flake and the corner of Zebedee. The meat of the crux lies in the first few moves up the arete, an insecure pop up for a crimp leads to further crimps until two slopers miles above the gear point the way to a big jug and a chance to relax. Paddle easily up to the bolts and ab off. OW (on-sight)
The Aardvark & Ferret E6 6b	A superb, sequency route up the blunt rib to the right of Don't Slip. Climb the lower arete, before stepping left into a small corner to place some sound nuts, then step back down and right onto the upper arete for the crux moves. These consist of a precarious series of moves up the arete, using a small side pull for the left hand, and a series of sloping holds for your right. Don't bother looking for foot hold, they're all smears, though a cunning toe-hook should help, before a nasty balancy move is made to stand up and gain some real holds at the aretes termination. An easy groove then leads to a double bolt belay, and salvation! AS (lead after top-rope practice)
SOS E4 5c	Like so many at Sea Walls this route has suffered from mega polish [at this end of the crag at least, try further left - JB] , making the groove to the right of The Aardvark and the Ferret a real nightmare. The initial easy angled groove is easy enough, though an HB Offset 4 placement shouldn't be missed, just before the groove steepens up. Here a large, flat and horrifically polished hold provides the pschological crux. Manteling onto this on a sunny day, you should be able to see yourself in it's mirror like finish! Once standing on this hold a good Rock 3 can be placed on the right, before a couple more moves are made up the groove to easier ground, and the belay. AS (lead after minimal top-roping)
Smoove Groove E5 5c	As is typical for the harder routes on the right-hand side of sea walls, this route provides some great moves on minimal holds with loads of friction. The crux lies in the shallow groove towards the top, a boulder problem up in the sky! Start directly under the groove. Either tend slightly left, or climb directly (6a) to a small ledge under the blank slab to the left of the groove. From here carefully move into the groove on a large and polished foothold (once this move is made you are commited to climbing the route). Holding a large sloper now carefully work your feet up into the groove. With your right hand, reach for a small but positive hold, and top out on this. Reverse down on idleburg buttress. SvZ (soloed after top-rope practice)