Tigers Don't Cry ***
HVS 5b |
This is a great route, worth it's stars far more than the Musketeering
routes further along the crag. A crack provides the line, and looks deceptively
easy. The lower section is quite steep, and will provide a bit of a pump.
An easier section up to a ledge is followed by a nice surprise at the end
- a shallow chimney where the crack runs out. The climbing is consistently
interesting, and there is more gear than you can shake a stick at. Don't
bother with Laughing Cavaliers et al., do this instead.
JB (on-sight) |
Easy Rider **
E1 5b |
Its shite, I really wouldn't bother.
CS |
Motion Pictures ***
E1 5b |
A good route, climbing a fairly steep wall, on good rock (for the first
50'), with plenty of interest. The first crux is a couple of feet off the
ground, before some good small wires. Then climb up on small holds to a
peg at 20'. Once the peg is passed, via some superb moves, a good pocket
can be reached. Placing some gear in the pocket would be nice, a mid sized
cam would probably be good. Anyway, moving up slightly, the crux awaits.
Absence of technique on this route may be disastrous - use your feet! (Unless
you're over 6'). The exit requires some care, as loose blocks remain. In
all, brilliant!
JB (2nd) |
Touch the Fire **
E2 5c |
Another quality route. Wicked crimpy wall climbing, with some
cool concretions. The start might feel bold, but the gear is solid
when you get it.
JB (2nd) |
All For One *
HVS 5a |
This is a good route which I would give more stars. Starting by the
big cave at the left hand end of the wall, it goes up a steep juggy nose
where strenuous protection can be arranged, but I wouldn't bother on reflection.
It all gets a bit more technical then, wending your way up a slightly more
gentle face. There is loads of gear, and an in-situ thread (v. dodgy) as
you go almost directly up to a solid tree. The crux comes about 15 feet
below the tree, where an agonising pull on a tiny hold enables you to slap
the next big hold (not actually that good). Some exciting footwork then
puts you on easier ground and the tree is reached easily.
OW (on-sight) |
Hit and Run Buttress
|
An excellent piece of rock by Wye valley standards. Don't be put off
by the lack of stars. These routes are very good and worth the extra walk.
They put some of the two starred routes elsewhere in the guide to shame.
Here are some of the better climbs on Hit & Run: |
Hit and Run *
E2 5b |
A good climb following an obvious line on the left hand side of "Hit
and Run" buttress (where else). The rock is good and so is the protection,
all a bit unusual for the Wye valley but it's a pleasant surprise.
CS |
Touche Pussycat *
E1 5c |
Stone the crows, another good route. Hard move(s) low down and next
to gear followed by some well protected climbing make this a reasonable
proposition for the grade. Some fine moves higher up and only a short muddy
section near the top. Not quite as intimidating as the guide would suggest,
in fact not intimidating at all.
CS |
Poka Dot *
E2 5c |
Thin, bold climbing on some suspect rock will make the Wye valley regular
feel right at home. Still, its definitely worth doing. Some entertaining
jamming at the top.
CS |
Synapse Collapse *
E3 6a |
This climb takes the roof on the right hand side of the buttress. It
gives a hard move through the weakness in the roof and is protected by
small wires and pegs on the crux. A fine trip which is quite difficult
in places especially if you wander off route low down.
CS |