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Cheddar Gorge
Bristol Area
Wye Valley
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Wintours Leap
Far South Bay
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Childhoods End **
E2 5c |
A fine route involving, as indicated in the guide book, a variety of
styles of climbing. The climb takes a splendid lower wall following a hair-line
crack. Here the climbing is on "sandy" pockets until a long reach is required
to reach the break. The crack does take a bomber Size 0 Wallnut near the
top so this move is very well protected. Once the break is reached a rest
allows the two pegs protecting the roof to be clipped. This roof section
is easier than it looks (foothold out left). From here to the bore-hole
the climbing is a lot easier but with no fully reliable gear (1 friend
zero and two friend halves will fit in muddy breaks if you have them).
From here, clip the bolt half way up the bore-hole which is a bit gripping
if you're short. A lay-away on the side of the bore-hole allows a finger
hold to be reached and cranking up gives you just enough height to slap
a very loooooong way to the jugs. Bolt belay, rap off. The guide book grade
says this route is 5c. There is no way the top move is 5c, especially if
you're short. Really the grade should be E2 6a. The crux however has two
solid bolts at head height so it really couldn't be safer for the grade.
Well protected and jolly good fun.
CS |
Central Rib Route II *
VS 4c,4b,5a |
A strange route in respect that the exposure is so non-existent you
feel as if you've never left the ground. Both the pitches are quite broken
and it is only the end of the first pitch that provides any consistently
interesting climbing. The guidebook states that this pitch is quite serious
towards the end, really a bit of an injustice. I would recommend, however,
not slipping when trying to clip the peg under the roof. The tumble would
be a very long one. In all, probably worth doing, and convenient as you
can abseil down the routes to the left to get back down. There must be
better VS's out there?
CS |
Great Overhanging (GO) Wall
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King Kong ***
HVS 5b?
E2 5c? |
A great route which seems much more sustained than the guidebook's HVS
grade suggests [although it was written before the rock fall - JB].
The start has seen a major rock fall which has made pulling over the roof
serious. The crack might appear a bit muddy/dusty from below but it was
fine in my opinion and allowed decent jamming and laybacking. The feet
won't really bite on the dusty left wall, but you've just got to look
around and there are places to smear. Although the gear in the first bit
is bomber you don't really want to fall off - if you did, you could land
on the very sharp new boulders below. Place a perfect Camalot 2 in the
crack and then make a committed pull up to a perfect crimp on the right
wall. We continued the rest of the first pitch following the crack all the
way to the top roof which was climbed directly trending slightly
right.
Suggested grade: E2 5c
MW (on-sight) |
Stairway to Heaven **
E2 5b,5c (270') |
Present guidebook description:
Stairway To Heaven E2 5c ** 270 ft
This spectacular, audacious, intimidating and wild route forges an
awe-inspiring way through the magnificent shield of perfect quality rock
to the left of King Kong. An unremitting line, this major undertaking yields
only to a determined approach and rewards the successful ascentionist many
times over.
Alternative description:
Stairway To Heaven E2 5c ** 270' (70' of rock, 110' of soil, 20' of
rubble, 65' of unspecified vegetation, 5' of loose underprop)
1. 5b (140'); The route begins immediately as you set foot on
it. It finishes promptly as your feet career off the initial highly reflecting
footholds/mirrors. Applying industrial cyanoacrylate to your ineffectual
Stealth Rubber should soon have you up the first 50 ft of King Kong. At
this point you cannot ignore the compelling (non)line to the left. A stroll
left along shaley ledges brings the enormity of the task into view. A series
of lawns, mud banks, shrubs, bushes, loose underprops and grazing herbivores
are interconnected by short bursts of fine GO wall limestone. The best
progress will be achieved if two trowels are taped to the wrists and a
humorous attitude is developed towards the in-situ protection.
Careful assessment of each hold is strongly advised and should then be
ignored. Pull on the grass instead. Particular attention should be paid
to the loose underprop which can be admirably protected as there is a fine
Nempnett Thrubwell #3 placement at it's base. All too soon this tremendous
pitch is over - belay on large muddy ledge, being careful not to knock
mud onto the route below.
2. 5c (130'); Straight off the mud bank, the route forces you
to first weave left then right as you desperately try and avoid the vegetated
groove, all to no avail. At this point the aspirant leader will be surprised
to note that they will have to do the first bit of rock climbing on the
route. The deep shock that they find themselves in will mean that they
are rapidly over this section and are facing an exit up a mud filled runnel.
The previous 200 ft will have adequately prepared them for this. Note that
especially good humour can be developed in your belayer at this point as
you unload several wheelbarrow loads of high quality topsoil on to them.
Abseil descent.
JACR |
Fly Wall
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Bulging Flies **
E2 5a,5c (100') |
A great little route which seemed quite high in the grade. A typically
poor first pitch soon leads to a fine battle with the obvious overhanging
jamming crack. A few swift grunts and some well aimed flailing should (?)
lead to a rest. The juggy looking top section is still quite tricky and
being spat off is a distinct possibility. In all, a good climb with adequate
protection (if you trust in-situ slings). Take some large friends (size
3 and size 2.5 at least). Well worth its stars.
CS |
Freedom **
VS 4b,4c (100') |
The classic easy route of Fly Wall. A good mix of slabby wall climbing,
steep corners and an exciting hand traverse. The polish is not too bad
(except the last move), the protection is bomber and both pitches can be
strung together to avoid the hassle of belaying. The only problem is the
fact that it's completely nails (just like everything on Fly Wall). Still,
can't have everything. Definitely not soft touch.
CS |
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